The next day we farewelled the Dumaresques – with invitations to come north and let us repay their hospitality -and set off for New Norfolk. The plan was to visit the Rosedown Gardens, drop in to see Dinie Mills (George and Martin’s aunt) and make our way down to Cygnet and Helmsman’s House, our B&B for the next three nights.
We had a lovely drive along the Derwent River and arrived in the historic pioneer town of New Norfolk. Many of the pioneers who settled around the town were from those resettled when the first Norfolk Island settlement was closed. These Norfolk Islanders were mainly farming families, who were offered land grants in Tasmania as compensation for their relocation.
The climate was colder than sub-tropical Norfolk Island, which proved a challenge for the hardy pioneers during the first few years, but eventually the district became self-supporting. In 1825 the original name of the town, Elizabeth Town, was changed to New Norfolk in honour of their former home.
Many of the founders were “First Fleeters”, transferred from Sydney to Norfolk Island when it was settled just a few weeks after Sydney. Ten First Fleeters are buried in the Methodist Chapel at Lawitta, New Norfolk. Notable is Betty King, née Elizabeth Thackery. The headstone on Betty’s well-tended grave reads, “The first white woman to set foot in Australia” from the First Fleet at Sydney Cove.
On Wednesday 6 February 1788, during the bulk unloading of the women convicts, Betty Thackery left the ship “Charlotte” and excitedly jumped from her longboat to the beach before anyone else. She therefore became the first, and most widely known of the convict girls to run up the beach in Australia – amidst much cheering from the crowd of waiting male convicts and guards. She is also believed to be the last surviving First Fleeter, male or female, when she died at 89 years of age on 7 August 1856.
Unfortunately Rosedown Gardens were closed (we were to find this a lot during our trip so it is always advisable to phone ahead!) It was starting to get quite close to lunchtime so we thought we should call in on Dinie earlier so as not to disturb her lunch. Dinie’s husband, Ernest, had been a great favourite of ours, often dropping in to Woodlands on his way north. Dinie rarely left Tasmania (probably nervous of Ernest’s flying) so I didn’t know her well but Edgar was very fond of her.
Dinie, who is now 92, lives in a retirement village in a lovely unit overlooking the Hobart Rivulet. She is remarkably spry and when we arrived we found she had set the table and cooked lunch for the three of us! Lunch was started with a whiskey and, instead of a quick visit, lasted several hours. She is very modern in her outlook and very good company.
By mid afternoon she was tiring, so we said our farewells and headed for Cygnet with a diversion to Willie Smith’s Apple Shed, which was also closed due to a function. Feeling rather exasperated (two closures in one day) we drove along the Channel Highway, which follows the upper reaches of the Huon River, and finally reached Helmsman’s House. 
There are B&B’s and there are B&B’s, but Helmsman’s House is in a class of it’s own. We opened the door, to the sound of classical music playing, and found the most exquisitely furnished house with stunning views down over Cygnet Bay. 
On the table in front of us was a platter of cheeses and nibbles with two wine glasses and a note saying that the wine was in the fridge. The wine was one of my favourites, a Forty Two Degree South Chardonnay from Frogmore Creek. 
The Helmsman’s House is a spacious two-bedroom, two bathroom renovated Federation cottage. 
Double glazing, carpet where it counts, soft beds, deep couches and a cook’s kitchen make for a very comfortable stay. 
The Chimineé Philippe double-sided wood fire keeps you snug;
while luxurious bathrooms — each with a bath and underfloor heating plus walk-in shower —will melt tension from body and soul.
Undoubtedly the star of the well-equipped chef’s kitchen is the revolving 1917 Metters Bush Pantry. This rather eccentric object is a space-saving pantry whose drawers brim with all kinds of dry goods, sauces, oils and treats.
The fridge comes generously laden with seasonal and organic goodies including free-range eggs, local bacon and Tasmanian cheeses, plus artisanal Cygnet bread, milk from the dairy down the road and excellent Tasmanian butter. Tasmanian yoghurt is also provided, along with muesli and a range of breakfast cereals. Posie had even gone to the trouble of stocking lactose free milk and butter for Edgar.
The vast living-dining area has French doors leading to the limestone terrace with glorious views of water, mountains and sky. Other outside areas include a pretty white-painted “folly” – a perfect place to read or meditate embraced by the bay and the hills – and a gazebo at one end of the terrace. Sundowner drinks as you watch the sunset? Why not. We took the wine and cheese platter out onto the terrace and sat in the evening light admiring the view.
We were enjoying our drinks when there was a knock on the door and Posie and Andrew were there with a chicken and tarragon casserole and blackberry and apple crumble for our dinner!
They are an interesting couple. Posie Graeme-Evans and her husband Andrew Blaxland are the creators of the award-winning, and one of Australia’s most successful, television dramas, McLeod’s Daughters. Their 80 ha farm is their version of Drovers Run, the fictional working farm featured in McLeod’s Daughters.
The name of the property is “Frenchman’s River” to celebrate the hidden French history of Australia; history that began with the arrival of French expeditions to this region over two hundred years ago. The memory of the French remains alive since they lent their names to so many places in this tiny, exquisite region. Bruni d’Entrecasteaux (Bruny Island) mapped the bay in 1792 as “Porte des Cygnes Noire” (which became Cygnet – he’d never seen black swans before). He also named the river that flows into the bay below the farm after one of his lieutenants, Huon de Kermandec.
During their first years of ownership the couple were only able to steal brief moments at the property between work schedules. Eventually they found time and space to embark on an extensive rebuild, starting with the “Picker’s Hut”, which would become Posie’s first writing sanctuary, the site from where she wrote three of her five best-selling novels, and now the ‘Writers House’. The ‘Helmsman’s House’ (named after the men who Posie considers unsung heroes) was built shortly afterwards and they are now contemplating building a third. They are generous hosts and it should be a roaring success.
We had booked and secured a table inside on the window, which considering there was quite a nippy breeze, was ideal. 
We had a view over the dam with its water birds and the farm with some alpacas in the distance. 
Followed by lunch 
Enough said!
Crystal clear water with fabulous views of Oyster Bay, the Hazzards and Freycinet Peninsula were our reward.
but didn’t dally long as we were due out to lunch at Springvale Winery.
Susie organised all this for us and the result was spectacular. 
Martin was contemplating a swim but a few drinks later had given up the idea and we just chatted before partaking of a light dinner and so to bed.
It was once a greenhouse built over 40 years ago by a Devonport man – primarily to house his grand piano. A local mother and daughter fell in love with the building and after 10 years of negotiating finally bought it. It is now decked out with golden timber floors and streams of natural light, ceilings fans and cane furniture give it a tropical Cuban style atmosphere. 
It opened in 2015 and has never looked back. The grand piano was still there and whilst we were there a fellow diner asked if he could play it. He was obviously an accomplished pianist and he entertained us for the next 20 minutes with beautiful classical music.
Their concept had always been to develop it into a showcase for Tasmanian produce with seasonality playing a big part in the menu. 
Not only was it all, delicious but you could buy all the ingredients in the shop – which we did!
The garden is divided and space allocated to each part of the world in which rhododendrons grow in the wild. 
Plants which originated anywhere from the icy Himalayas to tropical New Guinea and across the Pacific to the Americas seem to have adapted to their hillside home.
We started in the arboretum part of the garden. Here single specimen trees of conifers and other striking and unusual trees have been planted so that you can see the tree in its entirety rather than as part of a shrubbery. 
From there we moved on to the more formal part of the garden, where the use of hedges and innovative planting combined with numerous water features and striking sculptures make this a garden full of surprises.
The Post Office in 1930 now a mural on the wall of the Kentish museum which was the old post office
In 1926 Jesse and Nellie Slater’s old business friend, Mr Coles of Wilmot, came into their shop. He tried to persuade them to invest money in a new company, G J Coles Pty Ltd, which his sons were forming in Melbourne.
along a high, tapering ridge, until you reach the breath-taking lookout platform perched high above the Mersey River as it flows along the valley through the Alum Cliffs Gorge 
As the walk features a number of steps, and was quite slippery in places, I was glad of my trekking sticks.
We both had a Banaberry Pancake which was a light crepe crammed full of bananas, strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Very healthy (except for the maple syrup) and very satisfying! The café is a lot of fun 
is decorated with elephants of every description including two wonderful elephant carved chairs.
Clarendon is set in 7 hectares of parklands on the banks of the South Esk River and is a magnificent three-story Georgian house with servants’ quarters, a heritage walled garden,
The avenue of 150 year old elms is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and has been unaffected by the Dutch Elm disease which has devastated the European tree.
– though her self confessed preference is for trees and the vegetable gardens, of which there are two.
Despite this preference there are plenty of beds of roses, perennials and flowering shrubs.
Two orchards keep the family (and the Church) supplied with fruit for eating and preserving. Hawthorn hedges, oaks, elms, laurels, lindens, maritime pines and sweeping lawns all create a magnificent setting for the house.
It is one of the oldest hotels in Tasmania and used to be run by three formidable sisters. 
Edgar quite clearly remembers it from age 8. It is still running much as it did back then but now run by a very friendly lady who happily showed us around. That night George’s brother John and his sister, Diane, came to dinner, which we ate in the formal dining room in grand style.
. We farewelled them both at around 10am and headed north for our Brunch booking at the Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory.
Feeling slightly overfull we sampled their range of wines and instantly joined their Wine Club. Their Riesling, Chardonnay, Sparkling Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were particularly good so, ensuring we were stocked up for the next stage of our journey, we set off for Coles Bay and our B&B “Dunwerkin”.
The parks service has done a lot of work grading the track so that it is not as steep as it once was but it is still strenuous 
though there are resting spots on the way. 
As you climb higher views open up below of the water and the town of Coles Bay – a formal lookout has been built at the best location. 
When you finally reach the saddle, which is studded by huge eroded granite boulders,
a sidetrack leads to the lookout with its iconic view. 
I had a couple of concerns having walked it before with our son Ben during our stay at Freycinet Lodge 20 years ago. That time we walked the Hazzard Beach/ Wine Glass Bay Circuit, which was 11Km of fairly rough going but I was a lot younger and fitter then. Now with a double knee replacement I was worried that I wouldn’t make it to the top and/or that I would be slow and, as it was already 5pm, would be descending in half-light. However all was well. We made it in sunlight, the view was fabulous and we made it down just as dusk was descending. 
before we headed to Freycinet Marine Farm, who are oyster and mussel growers and have a farm gate cafe.
There we sampled their oysters with salmon and Brie, oysters with soy and ginger, abalone and mussels with spicy tomato sauce. 
oysters with soy & ginger and the mussels were the winners with the others a little overcooked (actually a lot). Full of food once again we headed home to enjoy the ambience of our B&B and get ready to travel to the Bay of Fires.
A short walk through town to do a little shopping and book ourselves into Mohr & Smith for dinner then back to the resort for a leisurely lunch on our balcony.
Once again back in Mike and Pam’s suite we re-arranged the furniture, opened some beer and settled down to watch the boats sail in. 
Cool Wines, an independent retailer which offers specialist advice and a wide range of quality wines and boutique beers from all corners of the globe, was our next stop. Tim Goddard was our host. Tim has over 25 years in the wine industry, is a qualified wine judge and a stalwart of the Tasmanian wine industry. He heads a select tasting panel that ensures every wine earns its place on the shelf. He showed us how to judge a wine, how to hold it, check for clarity and colour, fragrance and taste. We tried five cool climate wines – all were delicious.
Our load wasn’t lightened when we reached Bruny Island Cheese shop in Salamanca Place. After trying the various honeys, cheeses and chocolates we added Prickle Box honey, Saint (a soft, white mould cheese with a lovely fudgey texture.) and O.D.O (a fresh cheese marinated in olive oil, it stands for One Day Old and that is exactly what it is. Great crumbled through hot pasta, melted on pizza or as an antipasto] to our load.
Arriving at the beautiful wrought iron gate entrance to the Gardens we headed straight down to the shop. Though the temperature was low, the day was sunny and the UVF was extreme. After purchasing a couple of very stylish hats we headed for the Mixed Border Garden via the Conservatory. 
It was interesting to view the various residences along the river, many very posh and nice and some surprisingly modest, 
On arrival we first went to pick up our hire car, at which point we had a most unfortunate attack of the miserlys: we declined to pay the 12 quid extra for a GPS reasoning it was only a small place – how hard could it be. Well, as we found to our cost how wrong you could be. Oxford would have to be the worst town in the UK to drive in – and that’s saying something. One ways, no ways, pedestrian only streets, restricted access – it had it all. So our progress (and regress) was marked by curses, mutterings, querulous questions and increasingly short answers.
After that signal experience, down the hill again to the Maritime Museum. You could spend the whole day in this building and I only had two hours sampling the various displays, models, and artwork.
Then we got on the red tour bus
