24th May
Monaco
Our ship anchored around 8am, one amongst the many of expensive vessels that have arrived and continue to arrive during the morning. It was a beautiful day, sunny with a few clouds and not too hot – perfect for watching the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, the jewel in the crown of Formula One experiences. The race takes place on the streets of the one square mile country bringing normal businesses to a complete standstill and there is an excitement in the air which extends to visitors and locals alike.
We had several options for watching the race. (a) Silverseas had reserved a Private Rooftop, where you can, for a fee, immerse yourselves in the excitement of the race and experience the sounds and smell of diesel AND get to watch the Race, (b) find ourselves a spot along the track where we could experience everything and catch the occasional glimpse of a speeding car or (c) where we can experience the faint sound of racing cars and watch everything on a giant screen in the comfort of the Venetian Lounge. Much to the disgust of our family we chose the latter and stayed connected with the progress of the Race during our time in port.
We did, however, brave the transfer launch where, with the ship rocking one way and the launch the other and with the able assistance of two crew on the boat and two on the launch, you waited until the decks were vaguely aligned and leapt across the gap. Being reasonably agile we managed, but you had to admire the fortitude of those who cast aside their walking sticks and threw themselves into the arms of the waiting crewmen with alacrity.
The practice runs hadn’t started yet so we had a quick look at Monte Carlo before going on to drive the famous Corniche Roads of the French Riviera, along cliff-side roads that offer spectacular panoramic views overlooking the coast and the Mediterranean.
The Basse, Moyenne and Grande Corniche are a series of parallel roads in the Maritime Alps linking Nice to Menton at different altitudes above the Mediterranean Sea. Each route has its charm, and you can see medieval perched villages, Roman ruins, elegant 19th-century villas, and exotic gardens.
We started off at sea level with a visit to Nice.
The Corniche Inférieure or Basse Corniche is nicknamed the “Route du Bord de Mer” (Seaside Road). Running along the seafront it was laid out in the 18th century by the Prince of Monaco and passes through several famous sea resorts. There are numerous villas to admire along the road.
One of the world’s most famous scenic roads, the Moyenne Corniche was built when aristocratic tourism on the French Riviera was already causing too much traffic on the Basse Corniche. The route passes several spectacular viewpoints on the Riviera coast, including the Villefranche-sur-Mer lookout with views of the port and old town, the outlook at Eze before crossing the viaduct and the Mont des Mules car park, situated directly above Monaco, and giving access to a small touristic circuit leading to an orientation table which offers a panoramic view of the Mediterranean coast.
The Grande Corniche (Upper Corniche) was built by Napoleon I. It follows the ancient Roman route known as Via Julia Augusta. Running sometimes at 500 metres above the sea, it offers spectacular views over the Mediterranean coast and access to the old hilltop village of Roquebrune and its medieval castle.
The roads of the 3 Corniches are inspiring in many ways and have seduced many directors who have used them as a film set. One of the most dramatic stretches of the road is around the Col d’Èze, a mountain pass 512 m high above the perched village of Èze. The road was featured in the James Bond movie “GoldenEye.” Other movies featuring these scenic routes include Transporter and Mr. Bean’s Holiday.
It was on the Grande Corniche, that Alfred Hitchcock shot one of the cult scenes in the movie “To Catch a Thief” starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant. The movie highlights the road’s winding paths and stunning coastal scenery as Grace Kelly and Cary Grant drive their Mercedes 190 SL roadster at high speed between Eze and La Turbie during a dramatic chase. Today, many holidaymakers, infused with their glamour, approach the specialist Rent-a-Car Classic to hire a classic car – Mustang, Porsche Speedster, Alfa Romeo Giulia, and the famous Mercedes 190 SL – and drive through Hitchcock’s landscapes.
By the time we transferred back to the ship the wind had died down and it was far less dramatic crossing. It was also time for lunch, and we decided to try Atlantide, one of the main restaurants on the ship.
Named after the seven nymph daughters of Atlas and his wife Oceanid Pleione, a sea nymph, they were supposedly granted immortality by Zeus in the form of stars in the constellation of Taurus. Atlantide is an elegant bar and grill that incorporates the best that the sea has to offer. Dishes such as royal crab, lobster, and verbena-infused red snapper in a sea salt crust are offered alongside the best steaks.
We arrived quite late, and things were winding down. The service was a bit slow, but we chatted with another couple at the next table and had an enjoyable lunch. I had the Lobster Bisque which was particularly good, and Ed had the Beef Tartare which he did not particularly enjoy. The standout feature of the meal were the plates, which were lovely!
After lunch we headed for our cabin for a rest and to listen to the faint whine of the cars as they raced around the track. Comfortably ensconced in our cabin I opted for room service for dinner whilst Ed went up to the top deck to listen to the cars and have a gin and tonic.
25th May
Monaco
A leisurely day on the ship. With the Grande Prix in full swing there was no point in going ashore unless you were planning to go to the race, so we caught up on our washing, caught up on our correspondence and visited the Optivum Spa – Ed to have a haircut and, seeing what a good job they did on him, I decided to have one too and so as not to waste a visit, partake of the Grande Prix beauty specials.
We had been advised that you would not have any problems with mosquitoes if you drank at least three gin and tonics a day so we went up to the pool bar with our books and tried to ensure we would be mosquito free while adding a few tapas plates for lunch. The final of the Grande Prix was being broadcast live at 3 pm so we made our way to the Venetian Lounge to watch the Race along with most others who had stayed on the ship.
That evening was the second of our speciality restaurants. S.A.L.T. Chef’s Table.
This culinary program – whose initials stand for Sea And Land Taste – is an integral part of every new Silverseas ship and is still one of Silverseas main differentiation factors. There are three main venues.
S.A.L.T. Bar applies the culinary program’s emphasis on regionalization to the drink menu, with cocktails inspired by local ingredients and customs.
S.A.L.T. Kitchen functions as a main dining room alongside the more traditional Atlantide, with the distinction that the restaurant menu is completely devoted to whichever region the ship is visiting. The venue’s name doesn’t do it justice – it’s a beautifully lit, elegant dining room that seats up to 160 guests for dinner. It offers two menus: Terrain, for dishes based on the latest port of call, and Voyage, which comprises the best recipes of each voyage.
S.A.L.T. Lab is the culinary program’s multi-use space. Passengers here can partake in hour-long hands-on cooking lessons that are centered around their destinations. At night, S.A.L.T. Lab turns into the Chef’s Table experience: a multiple-course dinner of small plates highlighting regional flavours and star ingredients, all accompanied by unique wines and cocktails.
The S.A.L.T. experience goes beyond the venues and features culinary lectures in the ship’s Venetian Lounge theatre, carried out by members of the S.A.L.T. program as well as guest speakers. For shore excursions, they identify the compelling food stories of a region and then seek out local experts who best represent that culture and cuisine. Passengers can select from a handful of S.A.L.T. culinary excursions offering visits to restaurants, farms, and markets, often with exclusive access.
Our evening began with a visit to the S.A.L.T. Bar where we ran into a couple of our friends. They were gaily mixing cocktails, using local ingredients and under the watchful eye of the senior mixologist – who was trying to reign in some of their wilder fantasies. We tried some of their inventions – some were incredibly good and some totally awful.
No foodie should miss this 11-course culinary extravaganza. Everything about the evening was exceptional, from the exquisite tasting dishes to the handmade bowls and plates they were served on as well as the accompanying illustrated cards and the entertaining commentary from the chef and his team. Because of the smaller scale of Chef’s Table, the culinary team can use some harder-to-source ingredients and be a bit more playful with the menu. This allows them to offer a creative interpretation of the cuisine of the region in a setting that encourages conversation and curiosity.
Once seated we were introduced to our Chef, sous chef, and the sommelier, who immediately mixed us a delectable cocktail consisting of rhubarb and ginger gin, champagne, lemon, and elderflower, which creates a spectacular cloud when it is poured!
The chefs and everyone involved in the program love to travel and find amazing tastes and ingredients along the way and the Chef’s Table format gives them a venue to share these discoveries with an intimate group of like-minded diners.
Conversation flowed freely between chefs and guests. Most of our companions were well travelled and appreciated delicious food and wine, which made for an interesting evening.
Whilst we were wining and dining the Silver Ray pulled up anchor and headed for our next destination – Saint-Tropez, a glitzy, glamorous coastal resort that is the French Riviera hotspot of choice for A-listers and flotillas of gleaming yachts.
26th May
Saint Tropez
We watched our arrival from the terrace whilst breakfasting and admired the town that Brigitte Bardot’s famous presence lent a glamorous and steamy appeal to. She still lives there but it is rarely seen preferred to stay at home with her animals.
If she were to venture out, she would be spoiled for choice with a number of top-notch restaurants and bars to choose from as well as a plethora of shops and boutiques displaying some of the world’s most famous and expensive labels. Sidewalk cafes abound and you could spend hours checking out the boats in the Marina
There were several organised outings in Saint-Tropez. Unfortunately, we missed a place in ‘the organised scenic stroll through the medieval streets including a wine class and tasting in a quaint village private terrace’ We did, however, score a seat on a trip to the lakeside town of Port Grimaud. A unique project in its day, Little Venice of Provence is a popular well-visited place known for it’s laid-back way of life. We strolled along the canals, explored the flower lined alleys, counted the number of colours on each façade and took a canal cruise before returning to the ship.
Unfortunately, Brigitte Bardot did not make an appearance whilst we were there, so we adjourned to the Dusk Bar to drown our sorrows. The Dusk Bar is a superb open-air sky bar with 270-degree, panoramic views from the stern. The Dusk Bar’s unobstructed views give you a wonderful view of sunsets at sea and is the perfect spot to watch Saint Tropez recede into the distance
27th May
Livorno
The ship is spending the day in Livorno, a historic port and beach gateway to Tuscany. In a flush of enthusiasm, we had booked a tour entitled ‘Florence on your Own’ without really thinking it through. We, or perhaps I should say I, had visions of wandering the streets of Florence with Rick Steves Audio Europe as a guide and stopping frequently at sidewalk cafes and bars – everything at our own pace!
This lasted until the morning, when Ed checking on times discovered that this was a full day tour – and a long one at that – and involved lengthy coach trips there and back. Feeling slightly guilty we cancelled the tour and went back to bed with a book. By the time we resurfaced all the other tours had gone. We only had a few more days before our cruise ended and so decided to have a more leisurely day. We caught the shuttle bus into Livorno for a wander around and a bit of retail therapy before returning to the ship. Little did we know that two days later in Rome we would be ‘visiting’ Renaissance Florence in a virtual reality experience that allows you to ‘fly’ over the city and visit all the places of interest!
Giovanni Palminteri is a classical baritone, entertainer and actor who has performed his soloist concerts in opera houses all around the world. Tonight, he was performing Il Bel Canto in the Venetian Theatre and, after dining at The Grill, we found a seat, organised a drink, and sat back to enjoy the evening. He was amusing, entertaining and his selection of songs ranged from classical opera to songs from popular musicals. It was a wonderful show and received a standing ovation from the audience.
A wonderful way to end the day!
28th May
Today was a Day at Sea. A chance to check out the Boutiques (which were closed whilst the ship was in port), see what was on offer in the Optivum Spa and chill out.
On display at the Boutique was ‘Jewellery for Every Day’ by Ileana Makri. Crafted for modern life and meant to be worn every day, her superb jewellery is produced in Greece, in collaboration with some of the nation’s finest artisans. A globetrotter at heart, Ileana travels extensively for design inspiration and to source the exquisite gems that feature in her fine jewellery collections. During the Covid pandemic, she turned to beading, leading to the creation of her more affordable Globetrotter Collection. Though I didn’t buy anything I was sorely tempted – particularly by some of the beaded pieces!
I thought I would give the Body Composition Analysis at the Optivum Spa a miss – not really wanting to know the answer – and joined Ed for lunch before returning to our cabin to rest up and prepare for the night’s festivities.
Showtime in the Venetian Theatre featured Motown. An upbeat, fast paced performance with memorable music ranging from the Supremes to the Temptations. Unfortunately, we could only stay for a brief time because it was time for our third speciality restaurant experience.
Kaiseki Restaurant offers a multi-course Japanese dining experience. The fine art of Kaiseki lies in its meticulous preparation and beautiful presentation with dishes reflecting a passion for tradition. In the evening you can watch the skilled chefs at work around the central teppanyaki table producing dishes such as rock lobster, miso black cod, wagyu beef teriyaki and tempura ice cream. In short you are treated to a theatrical production of flavours, tastes, and senses in minimalistic, authentic Japanese ambience. We loved our evening. There are many who complain about the additional charge in the evening but without the theatre and flavours of the teppanyaki table it is just a Sushi Bar.
We left feeling well dined and went back to the Venetian Lounge where Sashell Beck, a talented soprano, was serenading the audience with her show ‘Opera meets Broadway’. As well as a beautiful voice she has a natural stage presence and an amusing repertoire, and we loved her show.
29th May
Naples
We were in Naples for the day and didn’t waste a minute! The ship docked at 8.am and by 8.30 we were on our way to explore the life of 18th century European royalty!
The Royal Palace of Caserta and its gardens are an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Often compared with the Palaces of Versailles and Fontainebleau, this incredible building was designed by the Campanian architect Luigi Vanvitelli, one of the most important exponents of the Baroque, who worked under the precise direction of the King of Naples, Charles of Bourbon.
The work began on 20th January 1752 and after some serious slowdowns was completed in 1845. It is considered the last notable example of Italian Baroque architecture. We were to tour the Royal Apartments and then take a stroll in the magnificent gardens.
Theatricality, illusion, awe, and enchantment of the senses. These are the elements of the baroque garden, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli and completed by his son Carlo and built according to the wishes of the king and his successor Ferdinand IV, the garden is a typical example of the Baroque extension of formal vistas and was inspired by the park of Versailles. It stretches for 120 hectares (300 acres) and starts from the back façade of the palace, flanking a long alley with artificial fountains and cascades. There is a botanical garden called “The English Garden” in the upper part.
In 1998, the palace was a filming location for Star Wars: Episode I – The Phantom Menace, specifically as the interior of the Theed City Naboo Palace. In addition, scenes from Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones were filmed at the palace, specifically in the Upper Vestibule. It has also been the site of other notable films and television series, such as Mission: Impossible III and Angels & Demons.
We had a short walk around Naples before returning to the ship and starting the sad job of packing up. The ship was departing for Rome at 6pm. We wanted to watch the departure, we had organised dinner with some friends and all our luggage had to be in the corridor by 11pm.
Our last dinner was at Atlantide and could not be faulted. We had had lunch there previously and it was below the standard of the other meals we had had on the cruise. The dinner was on quite a different level. We ordered mainly seafood and every course was superb! There were six of us at dinner and between us we ordered just about the entire menu. A succession of dishes appeared on the table to be admired – Laced Prawns, Seared Scallops, Grilled lobster tail, Crab and Chilled Cucumber and that was just the starters. I had the lobster tail followed by an expertly boned Dover sole and the lemon meringue tart and Ed the seared scallops, a fillet steak, and the apple tart.
A memorable last meal!
We made it back to the cabin in time to get our bags, suitably tagged, out. We slept our last night in our beautiful cabin which had been our home for the last twelve days. Our butler had provided our standing order for a thermos containing a warm drink and a snack for sleepless periods during the night.
It had been an excellent cruise. Everyone on the ship had gone out of their way to make our stay memorable and they succeeded. If I had any regrets, it was that we didn’t participate in more of what was offered – out of ignorance more than anything. We received the Silverseas Chronicle every day and often just glanced at it, thus missing out on many activities that we would have enjoyed. I’m not sure how we would have gone with dance lessons with the Silverseas Dancers but it would have been fun to try and my sushi making would have definitely improved after sushi making classes as would my cooking repertoire after S.A.L.T Lab classes and how did we miss out on the Chocolate Extravaganza with its array of delicious deserts and the various wine tasting events. Then there was the talk on Natural Relief from Arthritis, Back and Knee Pain as well as the walk-in Acupuncture Clinic which would have been a good follow up to the dance classes!
Being our first cruise, we were not quick enough to book into events that the seasoned travellers seemed to automatically know about and not being a big fan of coach tours we could have teamed up with another couple and taken a private car for not much more. But mostly I can’t believe that instead of/as well as a standard order for warm drinks we could have had a standing order for champagne and caviar on our balcony each evening 😳.
