The Northern Coast, Cradle Mountain and beyond

The Tasmanian Food & Wine conservatory is a cafe/providore, promoting Tasmanian food and wine from all across the state but especially supporting boutique and small producers as well as more widely known brands. It was once a greenhouse built over 40 years ago by a Devonport man – primarily to house his grand piano. A local mother and daughter fell in love with the building and after 10 years of negotiating finally bought it. It is now decked out with golden timber floors and streams of natural light, ceilings fans and cane furniture give it a tropical Cuban style atmosphere. It opened in 2015 and has never looked back. The grand piano was still there and whilst we were there a fellow diner asked if he could play it. He was obviously an accomplished pianist and he entertained us for the next 20 minutes with beautiful classical music.Their concept had always been to develop it into a showcase for Tasmanian produce with seasonality playing a big part in the menu.

Edgar studying the menu carefully
This was obvious in the Gourmet Platter we had, which featured a variety of cheeses including a fresh ricotta with walnuts and honey, both hot and cold smoked salmon, ham, salami and corned beef, chicken terrine and salmon pate with caviar, pickled walnuts and marinated octopus. The accompaniments were award winning mustard, quince jelly, tomato and chilli jam and dukha all served up with wafer biscuits and crusty bread. Not only was it all, delicious but you could buy all the ingredients in the shop – which we did!

Having brunched so well we made our way north in search of the Emu Park Rhododendron Gardens.

Three men and their passion for the genus Rhododendron conceived the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden in 1981. The site was a scrub and blackberry infested hillside and it would have needed imagination and vision to see the potential of the world-class garden it has become.

The amphitheater consisting mainly of rich volcanic soil, which has never been farmed. The slope is quite steep into a large stepped basin fed by several natural springs, which form a series of lakes. The garden is divided and space allocated to each part of the world in which rhododendrons grow in the wild. Plants which originated anywhere from the icy Himalayas to tropical New Guinea and across the Pacific to the Americas seem to have adapted to their hillside home.

Brunsvigia josephinae, commonly called Josephine’s lily or candelabra lily – soon to be growing here

Owned by an independent, non-profit organization, members have achieved most of the development through voluntary effort, which is obviously ongoing as new areas are being opened up as well as the established areas being maintained. Maree’s mother was one of the earlier volunteers and played a big part in the layout of the garden.

The peak time to visit is in October when most of the rhododendrons are flowering, but even in February it was a pleasure to walk around this well laid out garden. An added bonus was that there were very few people visiting whereas October is very busy.

After clambering up and down the hillside, we had some afternoon tea on the balcony overlooking the gardens and communed with Edgar the Elegant Emu before setting off to Harry’s on the Hill, our farm B&B for the next couple of nights.

Due to my inability to tell left from right and some rather obscure roads, we circled the area looking with dismay at some of the rather derelict farms on the surrounding hills before finally getting on the right road. Harry’s Farm was a neat and tidy farm with a lovely house sitting high on the hill. The house had been built for Harry’s son and when Harry retired and they moved into the farmhouse it became a very luxurious B&B. Our hosts had stocked the fridge and we spent a relaxed evening reading and occasionally looking up and contemplating the view.

The next morning we were awoken by the cluck of chickens and the sounds of a working farm. Our view up towards Cradle Mountain showed dense cumulonimbus over the mountain and the weather forecast was for 3 degrees, storms and hail so we decided to give Dove Lake a miss and concentrate on some more local attractions. We decided to go to the Villarett Gardens, the Sheffield Murals, the Alum Cliffs and, if time and not too exhausted, the Liffey Falls. Edgar walked the farm but I, contemplating the walking for the day ahead, had a more leisurely start.

Villarett Gardens is the result of the overwhelming passion of two dedicated gardeners. Beginning a garden on the side of a hill with just a few mature holly, beech and oak trees, they have, with skill and hard work, developed a 4 hectare garden of great beauty and well worth visiting. We started in the arboretum part of the garden. Here single specimen trees of conifers and other striking and unusual trees have been planted so that you can see the tree in its entirety rather than as part of a shrubbery. From there we moved on to the more formal part of the garden, where the use of hedges and innovative planting combined with numerous water features and striking sculptures make this a garden full of surprises.

Wisteria bridge

Villarett is a fully licensed café/restaurant with an extensive menu so is an ideal place for lunch before or after your garden wanderings. We decided to keep going as it was a bit too soon after breakfast and I had my eye on the Apple Café in Sheffield, which had some good reviews.

Sheffield is ‘The Town of Murals’ with murals painted on the side and front walls of most of the buildings throughout the town. It is an outdoor art gallery telling the history of the town through art.The first mural was painted by John Lendis in 1986 and was of Gustav Weindorfer,a passionate mountaineer, naturalist and conservationist and the man responsible for having Cradle Mountain/Dove Lake declared a National Park. The scene depicts a passage from his diary.

“When the ground is all covered in snow, I do build a big fire, open my door, seat myself very, very quietly in front of the blazing logs and presently they come in, one by one, the wild animals, without their usual fear of man or of one another, and share with me, in stillness, the grateful warmth”
Now, some 30 years later, many more visually appealing, emotional and curious stories embellish the walls of the town.
Sheffield Streetscape at the turn of the century
Smithy at work

In 1971 a group of students were lost during a sudden blizzard on Cradle Mountain. A helicopter was used for the first time when there was a break in the weather. One student died

The Post Office in 1930 now a mural on the wall of the Kentish museum which was the old post office


The Daffodil Show has been held in September every year since 1927, even during the war years. It followed the annual Cattle Show which is no more.

In 1926 Jesse and Nellie Slater’s old business friend, Mr Coles of Wilmot, came into their shop. He tried to persuade them to invest money in a new company, G J Coles Pty Ltd, which his sons were forming in Melbourne.
The new concept was of open display shopping, with nothing selling for more than two shillings and six pence. Mr and Mrs Slater couldn’t be persuaded to invest. The success of G J Coles Pty Ltd is legendary … Slater’s Country Store is still on the corner of Main and High Streets, Sheffield!

Two orphaned children, Dulcie and Laurie Mace, with the horse drawn spring dray sell vegetables to Mrs Slater. These children, then 10 and 12 had a hard life. Living with a step family, they needed to help provide by growing vegetables, then hawk the produce through Railton and Sheffield.
Laurie Mace grew up to be a respected and successful farmer in the district

In 1919 a severe electrical storm struck while men were working on the Cradle Mountain road. A bolt of lightning hit a nearby tree causing the horses to take fright and throw their riders, breaking the back of Ross Connell who died six weeks later in hospital.
The mural shows the mountains in the park, as well as the often extreme weather conditions.

Any vacancies?

We made our way to the Apple Café checking out the murals as we went, only to find that it was closed. We ended up in the rather noisy and crowded Bakery Café where we had a surprisingly good scallop pie whilst wishing we had dined in the comfortable surrounds of Villarett!

Non-deterred, we headed on to the Alum Cliffs. The Alum Cliffs lie within the Alum Cliffs State Reserve and form a part of the Gog Range. Known by its aboriginal name Tulampanga, it was a place of particular social and spiritual significance to Aborigines because of the ochre to be found in that area of the Gog Range. Many tribes travelled to Tulampanga to obtain this highly prized material and for them this was a sacred celebration place and significant as the meeting place of three Aboriginal nations.

It is a relatively short walk – about 60 minutes return. It takes you on an all-weather path through forest,along a high, tapering ridge, until you reach the breath-taking lookout platform perched high above the Mersey River as it flows along the valley through the Alum Cliffs Gorge As the walk features a number of steps, and was quite slippery in places, I was glad of my trekking sticks.

It was getting later in the day when we returned from our walk and, with visions of our comfortable retreat with its huge deep bath in mind, we decided to keep the Liffey Cliffs for another day and headed home via the Elizabeth Town Bakery for a crusty slow cooked beef pie.

Panshanger

Knowing we were planning to divert to the Elephant Pass Pancake Parlor for one of their famous pancakes we had a light breakfast and a short walk before setting out for Launceston.

We had called in at the pancake parlor when we travelled Tasmania in our campervan in 1989 and Ben and I had been back in 1997. It hadn’t changed at all – the pancakes were still delicious!We both had a Banaberry Pancake which was a light crepe crammed full of bananas, strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Very healthy (except for the maple syrup) and very satisfying! The café is a lot of fun is decorated with elephants of every description including two wonderful elephant carved chairs.

The drive to Launceston was lovely. We followed the Esk River Valley for most of the way and then the main inland highway. A quick stop at Dan Murphy’s for some tonic and BCF for another bag (we had been acquiring a lot of extras) and then down to Clarendon, a National Trust home with a long and interesting history.Clarendon is set in 7 hectares of parklands on the banks of the South Esk River and is a magnificent three-story Georgian house with servants’ quarters, a heritage walled garden,

Walled garden
several farm buildings including a barn dating back to the Early-Colonial period and significant because of its unusual construction, known as pise-de-terre in the traditional French style. The avenue of 150 year old elms is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and has been unaffected by the Dutch Elm disease which has devastated the European tree.

Clarendon was built in 1838 as an extraordinary statement of achievement for wealthy woolgrower and merchant, James Cox. Although built with convict labor, Cox was known to treat his convicts well and later played a major role in the abolishment of convict labor and the end of transportation.

After the death of James Cox and his wife the property passed on to his grandson who obviously lacked the flair of his grandfather. The property fell into disrepair and it was only the dedication of a few local business people that saved it convincing the National Trust to intervene in 1962. It took 10 years to renovate and opened it’s doors to the general public in 1972. We were shown round by a dedicated band of volunteers and encouraged to sit on the seats, try the beds and who were disappointed that neither of us could play any of the pianos!

Sitting room wonderful cornices
Dining room with picture of James Cox on right
Looking back at the front door with a most unusual hall table

By this time it was late afternoon and time for us to arrive at Panshanger. We made a couple of attempts. The first time we had the destination as Panshanger B&B and the GPS took us to the back of the property and left us in the middle of a paddock. When we told George he laughed and said that this happened a lot!

Our second attempt was more successful and after circling the property we arrived at the front door and got a warm welcome from Maree. We settled down for a cup of tea and to await George, who despite his broken leg, was flying in from Melbourne in his plane.

Panshanger was built by Joseph Archer who arrived in Van Diemen’s Land in 1821 and built a ‘small but handsome cottage’ on Lake River in the Longford area. As his wealth grew, he expanded his land holdings and added to his house, creating a home that is known today as one of the finest colonial examples of Greek Revival architecture in Australia. The original cottage forms part of the enclosed courtyard.

After two generations of Archers the property was sold in 1908 to Thomas Mills, a gold miner and engineer in Charters Towers. It was purchased as a wedding gift for his son, Charles, when he married Maude White of ‘Bluff Downs’ (Edgar’s great aunt). The Mills family still runs the property with George and Maree at the helm.

George eventually arrived home and we settled in for a convivial evening with them and their son, Thomas, who is living at home whilst he builds a plane. His other son, Nick, helps his father run the property and daughter, Pip, is a vet and lives in Western Australia. Tom and Nick still remember the Bassingthwaighte boys visit in 1989!

The next day George had a date with his physiotherapist, so Maree took us on a tour of the grounds and gardens. The acres of parks and gardens feature stable yards, a water tower, horse-operated pump house, remains of a cider press and a gardener’s cottage so there was plenty to see.

The cider press
Water tower
The garden leads down to the river
Maree is an extremely good gardener and obviously loves the gardens – though her self confessed preference is for trees and the vegetable gardens, of which there are two. Despite this preference there are plenty of beds of roses, perennials and flowering shrubs. Two orchards keep the family (and the Church) supplied with fruit for eating and preserving. Hawthorn hedges, oaks, elms, laurels, lindens, maritime pines and sweeping lawns all create a magnificent setting for the house.

During our tour we visited Longdown, the former home of Ernest and Dinie Mills, which now forms part of Panshanger. It is currently being renovated in anticipation of George and Marie moving in when it is completed. Nick and his wife Stacey and family will then take over the homestead. Next to Longford are the ‘International’ and ‘Domestic’ terminals of Panshanger. The International Terminal houses George’s beloved Piper Comanche 400 and the Domestic Terminal houses the Rans V 7 that Tom is building.

That afternoon we went for a drive to visit the Fitzpatrick Inn where Edgar and his family stayed in 1956. It is one of the oldest hotels in Tasmania and used to be run by three formidable sisters. Edgar quite clearly remembers it from age 8. It is still running much as it did back then but now run by a very friendly lady who happily showed us around. That night George’s brother John and his sister, Diane, came to dinner, which we ate in the formal dining room in grand style.

The next day George and Edgar went out to look over the cattle and inspect George’s crops. George has always been an innovative farmer and his crops include, hemp for hemp oil and opium poppies for medical opium. We farewelled them both at around 10am and headed north for our Brunch booking at the Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory.

Up the East Coast

Catching a taxi to the airport we picked up our rental car, with the welcome news that we could take it to Bruny Island and so wouldn’t need to change cars and thus giving us extra time in the Huon Valley.

On to Frogmore Creek Vineyard and to the stand out meal of our trip. The presentation was so beautiful it almost seemed a shame to eat it – and for once the flavor and taste was as good as it looked. Torn between choices we finally settled on:

Diced sashimi of tuna, trout & scallops, pickled cucumber, flowers, herring roe, crostini, wasabi cream
Chargrilled scallops, spanner crab salad, avocado, asparagus, crispy serrano, 42° sparkling and vanilla cream

Roasted prawns, spicy Thai fish cakes, potato & lemon puree, crispy sourdough, cos, tom yum mayonnaise

Roasted mini porterhouse steak & dumpling, garlic aioli, twice cooked Nicolai potato, swede, herb butter

Richmond Farm vegetable garden, hummus, pickled & roasted beetroot, hazelnut & garlic soil, lemon snow

Crème brulee of lemon verbena, macadamia nuts, brioche crumble, bay leaf marshmallows, basil ice cream

A lactose free berry dessert created for Edgar by the chefs

All eaten in the beautiful surrounds of the vineyard with views over the lake. Feeling slightly overfull we sampled their range of wines and instantly joined their Wine Club. Their Riesling, Chardonnay, Sparkling Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were particularly good so, ensuring we were stocked up for the next stage of our journey, we set off for Coles Bay and our B&B “Dunwerkin”.

Coles Bay and Freycinet
”Dunwerkin” was just as described with a lovely view over the little bay and comfy chairs to relax in with comfy beds to sleep in. Slightly off putting were the number of dictatorial notes around the place. Maybe she has had some bad experiences!

View from the deck
Contemplating the view

We threw on a load of washing and set off for the walk to Wine Glass Lookout. The track leaves the car park and almost immediately begins the 250-metre climb to the saddle between Mount Amos and Mount Mayson where the lookout is located. The parks service has done a lot of work grading the track so that it is not as steep as it once was but it is still strenuous though there are resting spots on the way. As you climb higher views open up below of the water and the town of Coles Bay – a formal lookout has been built at the best location. When you finally reach the saddle, which is studded by huge eroded granite boulders, a sidetrack leads to the lookout with its iconic view. I had a couple of concerns having walked it before with our son Ben during our stay at Freycinet Lodge 20 years ago. That time we walked the Hazzard Beach/ Wine Glass Bay Circuit, which was 11Km of fairly rough going but I was a lot younger and fitter then. Now with a double knee replacement I was worried that I wouldn’t make it to the top and/or that I would be slow and, as it was already 5pm, would be descending in half-light. However all was well. We made it in sunlight, the view was fabulous and we made it down just as dusk was descending.

Having exercised off our lunch, we settled down for a well deserved Lark Whisky and Forty Spotted Gin followed by Bruny Island cheese, Tassal salmon, Wursthause ham, baby salted tomatoes all washed down by Frogmore Creek Wines.

The next day we had a leisurely start, caught up with our washing and headed out mid morning for the second of the walks we had decided to do. We bought some hiking sticks from the Park Visitors Centre (which were to hold us in good stead throughout the rest of our stay in Tasmania) and set out for the Cape Tourville walk. Cape Tourville has commanding views of the east coast of Freycinet, which made it the ideal spot to build a lighthouse and, more recently, a walking track. The latter is suitable for wheelchairs so we didn’t really need our sticks but they helped with the scramble to the lighthouse. The walk is only 500m but there is a lot to see and some of the views are breath taking.

Bird Island – a breeding island safe from foxes

A nostalgic visit to Freycinet Lodge for a very late pre-lunch drink in their lounge before we headed to Freycinet Marine Farm, who are oyster and mussel growers and have a farm gate cafe. There we sampled their oysters with salmon and Brie, oysters with soy and ginger, abalone and mussels with spicy tomato sauce. oysters with soy & ginger and the mussels were the winners with the others a little overcooked (actually a lot). Full of food once again we headed home to enjoy the ambience of our B&B and get ready to travel to the Bay of Fires.

The Bay of Fires
Sadly the next day was blustery and cold and our trip on the glass bottom boat had to be cancelled. I had particularly wanted to see the kelp forests and the sponge gardens – but that will have to wait for another time.

Instead we headed straight for St. Helen’s and the Bay of Fires – another place on my must see list. For years I had heard this stretch of coast being described as breathtaking, jaw dropping and a ‘slice of coastal heaven’. Lonely Planet named it as ‘the hottest destination on earth’, which is probably going a bit far. Nevertheless I was keen to visit it and walk along the white sand beaches beside the turquoise sea amongst the orange lichen covered boulders.

We arrived at St Helen’s just before lunch. We were staying at the Tidal Waters Resort, which I was a bit nervous about, as some of the reviews had not been good. However we could not have been welcomed more warmly and our room was well appointed and comfortable with a private balcony looking out on the garden. A short walk through town to do a little shopping and book ourselves into Mohr & Smith for dinner then back to the resort for a leisurely lunch on our balcony.

Most of what they say about the Bay of Fires is true. We drove up to the Gardens and then walked the beaches and climbed the rocks on the way back. The water is crystal clear and the sea an extraordinary turquoise. The colour of the lichen is so vividly orange that you could well be forgiven for thinking that is why the Bay was named rather than Furneaux’s sighting of native fires.
We took lots of photographs and as the light started to fade headed home for dinner. Mohr & Smith was just as the reviews had said. Service was slow but the food was great. We both had the fried fish, scallop and prawn jungle curry with coconut rice and green mango followed by their much lauded sticky date pudding and coffee.

Now that is a flowering gum

The Wooden Boat Show

Rather reluctantly we packed up to move from our spacious apartment to our room in the Grand Chancellor for the Boat Show (reluctance disappeared after we saw the spectacular view of the whole marina from our window). We seemed to have acquired a number of extra bags filled with Tasmanian food and wine, which we intended to partake of over the next week of our travels, so looked rather like a Gypsy caravan checking in.

Our room was not ready so we called in on our friends, Mike and Pam Tyquin to coordinate our movements. Mike was off to do the ‘Parade of Sail’ on his son Chris’s boat ‘Boxer’ so we went down to the boat show to have a look around with Pam and find some scallop pies for lunch. After wandering through the exhibits in the Marine Pavilion – most of which we would have liked but couldn’t afford – we split up with Ed going to look at the boats and Pam and I to look through the craft shops and galleries and to visit Happy Happy Hobart again – which to my relief was still not sold!

We found Ed chatting with Garth Fielding (who sold us Suzanne) on his boat, Barcarolle 11, which was moored beside Barcarolle, the first boat we looked at, now ($200,000 later) looking much smarter. To everyone’s amusement Pam and I were selected as fashionable representatives of the boating community and were interviewed and photographed by an unknown magazine.

Once again back in Mike and Pam’s suite we re-arranged the furniture, opened some beer and settled down to watch the boats sail in.

Watching the Parade in comfort
The Parade of Sail
Mike and Brian (Mike’s brother) had been instructed to bring some drink, sit in the back and not touch anything whilst they were on board, which they dutifully did – Mike expressing some relief as the operation of ‘Boxer’ under full sail is quite a complicated affair. ‘Boxer’ came in looking very stylish and did a sail past the crowd before anchoring in the Marina.
Boxer
One of the other boats of interest was the barque ‘James Craig’ . The 72-metre vessel is now based in Sydney but has Tasmanian history. The ship was left to rot in Recherche Bay in southern Tasmania until a salvage operation began in 1972 and saw the vessel relaunched in 1997.
James Craig
That night we went to the first of the three restaurants we visited over the next three days – Franklins, Me Wah and Templo. All very interesting and pleasant meals with Me Wah, with it’s dishes that were full of flavor and beautiful presented, as the stand out for food and service.
Me Wah
Over the next couple of days we visited the Salamanca markets, organised the transportation of Happy Happy Hobart (which was now ours!) and spent some hours looking at the wooden boats that were moored in the Marina – all obviously well cared for and appreciated by their owners and the attendees of the boat show.

Of particular interest was “Boxer” which Chris built underneath their house and is a replica of what is believed to be the first client commissioned design and build by the famous Brisbane based boat builder, Norman ‘Boxer’ Wright , circa 1906. Launched in 2002, Boxer was built of red cedar mahogany and teak over 8 years under the watchful eye of Bill Wright (Norman’s grandson).

‘Boxer’

Today she is used for picnics, camping and racing. Her interior includes a number of creature comforts and mod cons including a drop leaf mahogany dining table that seats six, ice boxes, toilet, double sink, lighting, stereo, a demountable galley, electronic navigation and bench sleeping for six. In racing configuration she can hoist over 1500 square feet of sail across a gaff mainsail, topsail, spinnaker, balloon jib, ringtail (extends off the end of the boom) and watersail (extends under the boom)

We spent some time on the Rous Explorer, which had come down from Southport – we were welcomed aboard by the owners, Peter and Fran Green and got some good tips on varnishing. We spent quite some time at the Muir Winch exhibit – which resulted in our decision to replace our winch and finally we restocked for our trip up the east coast the next day.

Food, Wine and Roses

The next day we rose at a leisurely time and strolled down to Salamanca Square to meet with Mary McNeill for our Gourmania Tour. The three & a half hour city tour’s key focus is Tasmanian produce: stunning cheeses, sensational cool-climate wines, fresh seafood, charcuterie, pastries and more. On the way Mary, a third generation Tasmanian, pointed out places of interest and gave us a run down on the restaurants and eateries in Hobart.

We started off at The Tassal Salmon Shop in Salamanca Square where we sampled gravlax, cold smoked and hot smoked salmon and checked out all the spices and rubs that went with salmon. From there it was on to the Wursthause Kitchen just around the corner where we tried the salamis, prosciuttos and hams. Berkshire Pig ham was outstanding. Our helpful guide went through all the different types and cuts of meat and then moved on to some of the cheeses that were hand made by various families around Tasmania. Before we left Hobart we returned to these two shops and stocked up for our forthcoming tour.

Tassal’s Salmon Shop with all the spices and rubs
Some of the delicious small goods at the Wursthause Kitchen
We walked up the hill through St David’s Park, a formal English style walled park that dates from the beginning of European settlement in 1804. It was the site of the first burial ground in Tasmania and many of its most prominent citizens were buried there. The site was selected because of its discreet distance from the camp, and its natural beauty. In the 1820s it was described as ‘a place of real beauty and rare seclusion’ crossed by two crystal streams with fine old blackwood trees dotted through the groves of wattle on the high ground.

As the town expanded, the land surrounding the burial ground was gradually developed and by the 1850s people were voicing concerns about the health risks associated with burying corpses in such a thickly populated neighbourhood. In 1919 it was handed over to the City Council to be used as a recreation ground. At least 900 people were once buried there and Mary recollected that her mother and many of the citizens of Hobart referred to it as Skeleton Park and refused to go there. A major feature of the park is the memorial wall, which is made up of many of the original headstones from the park’s previous life as the Hobart colony’s first cemetery. It contains the names and details of many “First Fleeters” and many of the early settlers of Hobart Town.

The Memorial Wall

Onwards to Jackman & McRoss where we tried Ashbolt Elderflower Sparkling wine and a delicious savoury tart. Jackman & McRoss is a bakery cafe with a bakery inside and a bakery out the back. If it comes from an oven, they probably make it! Cool Wines, an independent retailer which offers specialist advice and a wide range of quality wines and boutique beers from all corners of the globe, was our next stop. Tim Goddard was our host. Tim has over 25 years in the wine industry, is a qualified wine judge and a stalwart of the Tasmanian wine industry. He heads a select tasting panel that ensures every wine earns its place on the shelf. He showed us how to judge a wine, how to hold it, check for clarity and colour, fragrance and taste. We tried five cool climate wines – all were delicious.
Spice World in the Bank Arcade saw us buying Tasmanian Pepper Berry in various forms. A delightful shop with the aromas of spices from around the world. On to Pigeon Whole Bakers for sweet pastries and tarts and the purchase of stone ground bread and then to the Lark Distillery for whisky tasting. Not being a whisky drinker I was offered a gin tasting – their beautiful Forty Spotted with Capi tonic, a twist of orange peel and a pepper berry. More purchases and we were starting to need a shopping trolley!
My favourite trio
On the way we passed the new Myer renovation. Lack of money in Hobart meant that most renovations were either new facades added to old buildings or old facades retained and new buildings added to the back. The Myer renovation was the latter but due to the renovations piercing one of the rivulets that run under Hobart proved to be extremely expensive as it collapsed the construction and half an arcade of shops.
Our load wasn’t lightened when we reached Bruny Island Cheese shop in Salamanca Place. After trying the various honeys, cheeses and chocolates we added Prickle Box honey, Saint (a soft, white mould cheese with a lovely fudgey texture.) and O.D.O (a fresh cheese marinated in olive oil, it stands for One Day Old and that is exactly what it is. Great crumbled through hot pasta, melted on pizza or as an antipasto] to our load.
Bruny Island Cheese Shop
Fortunately Smolt Restaurant was not far away. Named after one of the stages that salmon grown through and next door to Tassal’s we adjourned there for real fruit icecream and sorbet before heading home to unload our purchases and have a brief rest before setting out for the Royal Botanical Gardens.
Arriving at the beautiful wrought iron gate entrance to the Gardens we headed straight down to the shop. Though the temperature was low, the day was sunny and the UVF was extreme. After purchasing a couple of very stylish hats we headed for the Mixed Border Garden via the Conservatory.
Inside of the Conservatory
One of the stunning Bromeliads
Though the plants were all cold climate there were plenty of ideas and plants we could use in our garden. The giant dill was particularly attractive and I had it ordered online before the next day!
Rose garden with giant dill in the background
Through the French Memorial Garden and on to the Japanese Garden we happily photographed our way taking in ideas, plants and just beautiful arrangements.
Japanese Gardens

No sign of Tino (Gardening Australia) in the Community Food Garden just more ideas and a lesson in planting fruit trees and vegetables. A quick trip to the Sub Antarctic Plant House
Sub-Antarctic House
and then a cup of tea and some refreshments before heading for the Lily Pond, the Fern House and the Tasmanian Section then on to the Oak Woods which featured a number of listed trees. Back along the path above the Lily Pond and through the Chinese Section we eventually made it back to the gates, hailed a taxi and headed home.
A carved wooden gardener near the entrance

All in all we had walked about 8 kilometers around the town and through the Gardens. Our purchased wines, whisky and delicacies were very welcome!

Postscript
Mary of Gourmania tours is closely involved in the Hobart food scene. Here are her three recommendations to dine:

Etties
A European inspired wine bar, bottle shop and restaurant in the beautiful surrounds of one of Hobart’s oldest buildings. Simple elegant dishes paired with old and new world wines from home and abroad

Etties – 100 Elizabeth Street

Fico
One of the new kids on the block of Hobart’s blossoming food scene. The owners and chefs are young but with lots of experience in high end restaurants in Australia and Italy. The food is a modern take on Italian inspired food.

Fico – 157 Macquarie Street

Dier Mahr
Melbourne chef Kobi Ruzicka’s part bistro, part bar is a all about simple fine dining using seasonal ingredients

Dier Maar – 123 Collins Street

Mona

Today was set aside for our trip to Mona, the Museum of Old and New Art. We travelled up and back on the ferry along the Derwent River and climbed the 99 steps at the end.

The Mona Ferry
With it’s sheep!
Fortified by coffee, drinks and canapés in the Posh Pit and relaxed by sitting in large leather armchairs overlooking the scenery along the river, we managed the steps with little difficulty.
And it’s only 9.45am
Mona with it’s 99 steps

Known as Australia’s Temple of Weird, Mona is a controversial museum funded by an eccentric millionaire.

Outside exhibit at Mona
The mirrored entrance

Many of the exhibits are indeed controversial. Deep down in the museum’s cavernous underbelly—inside that mirrored box building—sits Wim Delvoye’s cloaca machine, otherwise known as “the shit machine.” The Belgium artist’s vast array of whirring tubes and bags mimic the workings of the human digestive system. The apparatus is fed food and produces poo. Dedicated to sex and death the museum is also home to 151 porcelain vulvas sculpted from real women.

But this isn’t all there is to see at Mona. Clever technology, stunning artwork and photography makes up the largest proportion of Mona’s exhibits. Yes there is an emphasis on sex and death but also on life and loving.

Hated by some, loved by others, MONA has put Tasmania on the map, single-handedly bumping up international tourism. Last year more than 330,000 people visited the museum—more than 25 percent of all tourists in the state. Tourism Industry Council Tasmania has estimated that the museum adds more than $100 million annually to Tasmania’s economy, one that previously relied on faltering industries such as forestry.

We spent most of the day at Mona and returned mid afternoon to put our feet up before returning for the Golden Hour, a communal dining experience with a degustation menu designed by Mona’s Executive Chef, Vince Trim. Sharing a long table at The Wine Bar with some very amicable company we ate our way through oysters, gazpacho soup with scallops, slow cooked pork with accompaniments and some very good Tasmanian wines, before adjourning to watch the sunset at Amarna.

Armana is the work of celebrated Arizona-based artist James Turrell and is one of a series of more than 80 Skyspace installations he has built in high altitude and geographically isolated locations. Mona’s is the largest Skyspace to date and the southern-most installation.

During the day

It is a roofless skyspace that creates a spectacular colour show as the light changes from day to night. Up to 90 visitors can experience the coloured light cycle from heated concrete seats around the rooftop perimeter or you can view the luminous phenomena lying on a central bed of volcanic sand. Concerned that I may not be able to get up again with some semblance of grace, we chose the heated seats.


It was a truly memorable experience.

Adjourning back to the Wine Bar we finished off with a pannacotta, berries and desert wine before saying farewell to our newfound friends and returning home.

Tasmania – The Arrival

Four o’clock in the morning and already 27C and humid. Our 6.25am flight to Tasmania was too early to catch a ferry from Stradbroke Island so we had left our comfortable air-conditioned house and spent the night on the “Suzanne”. Despite opening every hatch, door and window there was scarcely a breath of wind in the Marina and the boat was like an oven.

We were heading for the Wooden Boat Show in Hobart and then spending the next two weeks travelling around Tasmania and catching up with relatives. Hopefully by the time we returned the heat would have abated and we would be back to pleasant weather. We had given the garden a final water and then left it to it’s fate (vowing that before we left again we would have put in that long talked about remote watering system).

Our plans had been made well in advance and we had booked all the ‘not to be missed’ items. We had discovered that we could valet park the car at the airport for three weeks for less than we would have paid in taxi fares so were off to a good start!

We arrived in Hobart to a very pleasant 17C. A little chilly for some but for us it was heaven after the past couple of weeks.

Border Protection – glad that’s not my bag!

We took a taxi from the airport to our B&B in Salamanca Mews where we were met by Kim, our host, and shown around the very spacious and comfortable apartment.
Opening on to St. David’s Park and a 100 metres from Salamanca Place

We had arrived too early to officially check in so dropped our bags and headed down to Salamanca Square to look at the galleries and check out the cafes and restaurants, sample the Tasmanian fare, beers, wines and ciders (a Seafood Risotto at Maldini’s Restaurant was particularly good) and fall in love with Esther Shohet’s painting “Happy, Happy Hobart” – which we subsequently bought!
A reminder of our trip in years to come

We collected some supplies from the Tasmanian Fresh shop and repaired to our apartment to unpack and settle in. A glass of Frogmore Creek Chardonnay and a mushroom omelet on the sunny balcony and it was time to crawl into our king size beds and sleep.
Just the place to dine

In Summary

ACCOMMODATION
Best Hotels
Harvey Point, Donegal, Ireland
Old Ground, Ennis, Ireland

Best Boutique Hotels
Zanzibar Hotel, Hastings, England
The White House Hotel, Charmouth
Aspley House Hotel, Bath, England

Best B&B’s
Mariagh Lodge, Ballymena, Ireland
Hartwood House, Taunton, England
Dower House, Lyme Regis, England

Highy Recommended
Ravenstone Manor, Lake Bassenwaighte, England
The White Heather, Isle of Skye, Scotland
Aln House, Alnwick, England

MEMORABLE FOOD EXPERIENCES
The White House Hotel, Charmouth, Devon – Brilliant Chef
River Cottage Canteen, Lyme Regis, Devon – Interesting menu
Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, County Cork – Lazy Sunday Buffet
Hole in the Wall Pub, York – Yorkshire Pudding
Oaks Hotel, Alnwick – Sausage & Lamb’s Liver Casserole/Slow cooked lamb shoulder
Nanny’s, Shieldag – Salmon Platter (caught locally and done in 4 ways)
Mariagh Lodge, Ballymena – Breakfast starting with Bellywarmer porridge, (excellent chef so night degustation menu should be wonderful)
The Point Bar, Magilligan Point, Northern Ireland – Seafood Chowder

MOST MEMORABLE DRIVES
The Lakes District
This can be done in a day but better to stay overnight so you aren’t rushed
Starting and ending at Bowness-on-Windermere / Ambleside / Keswick / Derwent Water / Seatoller / Buttermere / Keswick / Bassenthwaighte (don’t miss St Bega’s Church) / Troutbeck (visit Aira Force Waterfall)/ Kirkstone Pass / Bowness-on-Windermere (take a ferry to Near Sawrey and Beatrix Potter’s farm, Hilltop)

North Scotland
This was a fairly easy day and you can extend it by turning off at Tornapress and crossing the Applecross Pass to Applecross on the coast and back to Tornapress which is a round trip of about 35 miles. This is a high pass so check conditions before you go.
Starting at Inverness / Kessock Bridge / Contin (stop off at Rogie Falls) / Achnasheen / Kinlochewe (photo viewpoint 2-3 miles before village on right) / Torridon (has some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Scotland)/ Shieldag (don’t forget to stop at Nanny’s for salmon platter) / Tornapress / Lochcarron / Kyle of Lochalsh / Isle of Skye

Isle of Skye to Loch Lomond Scenic Route
Rather a winding road but some spectacular scenery. It takes a good day.
Isle of Skye / Dornie (visit Eilean Donan Castle) / Shiel Bridge / Invergarry / Spean Bridge / Fort William / Glencoe / Crianlarich / Inverarnan / The Drover’s Inn (stop off at this historic inn for a meal) / Dumbarton

The Antrim Coast in North East Ireland
This is a long day – we set off at 9am and arrived in Derry at 9pm. We weren’t rushed but would have preferred more time at various places. If you want a leisurely trip suggest staying overnight somewhere on the way or starting very early.

Larne / Glenarm (visit the Walled Garden at Glenarm Castle and stop off at Garron Point / Cushendall (meeting point of three of the Glens of Antrim, Glenaan, Glenballyemon and Glencorp plus historic town so schedule a stop) / Torr Road (Have a good look at Google Maps in close up before you go and do not be deterred by GPS which will try to take you back on to the A2 – stay on Torr Road to Torr and all the way to Ballyvoy avoiding being diverted to Farrenmacallan Road. Stop off at Torr Head where on a sunny day you can see Scotland which is only 16 miles away) / Ballyvoy / Ballycastle / Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge / The Giant’s Causeway / Bushmills (stop off at the Old Bushmills Distillery and look out for Dunluce Castle just after leaving Bushmills) / Portrush / Magilligan Point (Point Break Bar & Restaurant for Seafood Chowder) / Ferry to Greencastle / Derry

The Ring of Kerry in South West Ireland
Can easily be done in a day but factor extra time for Muckross House. We went the afternoon before the drive
Killarney (plan a visit to Muckross House) / Killorglin / Glenbeigh / Rossbeigh (detour over the mountains for a fantastic view of the Dingle Peninsula)/ Kells / Caherciveen / Portmagee (take the Skellig Ring Road and visit Kerry Cliffs run by an enterprising farmer who offers fabulous views and a café for a small fee or you can cross the bridge to Valencia Island for the ‘Skellig Experience)/ Waterville (from Waterville to Caherdaniel are the most spectacular cliff views – be prepared to stop)/ Caherdaniel / Sneem / Kenmare / Moll’s Gap / Ladies View / Torc Waterfall / Killarney

Wales
This is a long two day trip which could be extended to three if you want to see Snowdonia. Alternately you could head west from Betwys-y-Coed to Snowdonia on secondary roads and linking up at Penrhyndeudraeth. This trip takes you through Gwydyr Forest and Brecon Beacons National Park as well as the Wye Valley.
Betws-y-Coed (this is the start of your journey through Gwydyr Forest Park) / Blaenau Ffestiniog (see the Ffestiniog Railway and the Llechwedd Slate Caverns)/ Penrhyndeudraeth / Barmouth / LLanidloes / Builth Wells (travelling mostly through the fabulous Brecon Beacons National Park) /
Abergavenny (short diversion to Blaenavon for the Big Pit National Coal Museum) / Monmouth (down through the picturesque Wye Valley)/ Chepstow

BEST GARDENS
Large
Bodnant Gardens,
Trebah Gardens
RHS Wisley
Hestercombe
Alnwick Gardens

Small
Hidcote
Abbey Gardens, Malmsworth
Kiftsgate
Hole Park

EXPERIENCES NOT TO BE MISSED
Canal boating with Black Prince in Scotland – the Falkirk Wheel
Canal boating in Wales with Black Prince – the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
Special Group Tours – Chelsea Flower Show, Gardens of Kent and Cotswolds
Tracing the ancestors in County Clare
Cooking classes at River Cottage in Charmouth
Big Pit National Coal Museum – Blaenavon, Torfaen, South Wales
Thames Boat Trip on the Cockney Sparrow from Embankment to Hampton Court via Kew

The Cockney Sparrow and other adventures

On Wednesday morning we caught the underground down to the Thames Embankment for a cruise up the river to Hampton Court. We were a little early so after organising our tickets we strolled up to Westminster Bridge to see all the goings on. Today was the opening of the new Parliament with the Queen and all the trimmings so the crowds were flocking in and police were everywhere.

Build up to the opening of parliament
Build up to the opening of parliament
Lyndal went up to one group to see if she could get a photo with a London Bobby for the benefit of Ben. The Sergeant promptly dobbed in the most junior Constable who rather reluctantly posed for the photo. One could sympathise with them because there had been several security alarms lately and all the security apparatus was obviously on high alert.
Lyndal and Constable Testa
Lyndal and Constable Testa

After paying tribute to Queen Boadicea, whose statue is on the entrance to the bridge, we returned to the wharf.
Queen Boadicea and her daughters seeking revenge
Queen Boadicea and her daughters seeking revenge
We checked out the various large and comfortable looking modern ferries imagining ourselves cruising up the Thames reclining in an armchair with gin and tonic to hand.
Luxury river cruise?
Luxury river cruise?
One by one they sailed off in the wrong direction and we were rather reluctantly ushered towards a funny little tub down the end of the wharf, which was to be our vessel.
The Cockney Sparrow
The Cockney Sparrow
“Welcome aboard the Cockney Sparrer”, delivered in the appropriate accent, was the refrain of the cheerful young man who ushered us aboard. He proved to be deckhand, barman, spruiker and general factotum, and also obviously the son of the only other crewmember, the white haired skipper up in the little wheelhouse.
The Spruiker and the Skipper
The Spruiker and the Skipper
6. Cockney sparrow skipper
Well it proved to be the most pleasant way to cruise up the Thames. As all the crowds had swarmed to the opening of Parliament there were only about 20 people on board and we sat on the top deck on a bright sunny day, with only a slight chill in the air, and were entertained by the young first mate cum deckhand who proved to be the most competent and knowledgeable spruiker. He gave us a good commentary on the decorative and interesting bridges
Westminster Bridge
Westminster Bridge
Vauxhall Bridge with figure
Vauxhall Bridge with figure
8. River Vauxhall figure
Albert Bridge
Albert Bridge
Putney Bridge lights
Putney Bridge lights
Hammersmith Bridge with Digby Mansions in background
Hammersmith Bridge with Digby Mansions in background
Entrance to Hammersmith Bridge
Entrance to Hammersmith Bridge

and key buildings along the river. Later we just relaxed with a sandwich and a bottle of beer and watched the scenery go by.
Expensive apartment conversion near Lambert Bridge
Expensive apartment conversion near Lambert Bridge
Apartments at Imperial Wharf and Marina
Apartments at Imperial Wharf and Marina
All Saints Church in Bishop's Park
All Saints Church in Bishop’s Park
Griffin Brewery - one of the oldest breweries still in operation
Griffin Brewery – one of the oldest breweries still in operation
Syon House - one of the homes of the Duke of Northumberland.  He also owns Alnwick Castle which we visited earlier in our trip
Syon House – one of the homes of the Duke of Northumberland. He also owns Alnwick Castle which we visited earlier in our trip

We went through two locks, the first one at Richmond,
Richmond Lock and footbridge
Richmond Lock and footbridge
and the big one at Teddington, the end of tidal waters and entry point to the upper Thames.
Entering Teddington lock
Entering Teddington lock
21a Up the lock23 Teddington lock 3It was interesting to view the various residences along the river, many very posh and nice and some surprisingly modest, 17River mansion Isleworth21 River Mansion Twickenham 225 River Mansion Kingston
as well as some beautiful old boats.19 River traffic 224 River canal boat
Feeding the birds at Kingston
Feeding the birds at Kingston

So after this very pleasant three-hour cruise we disembarked at Hampton Court and went to view the Palace. It was all very grand, the original palace having been built as a personal residence by Cardinal Wolsey, the most powerful and influential man in the land under King Henry VIII. Thomas Wolsey, obviously a prodigy and enormously painstaking, hard working and ambitious, rose from relatively humble origins to Lord Chancellor to the King and his most trusted adviser and fixit man. His fall from grace was equally spectacular when he failed to secure from the Pope the annulment of Henry’s marriage to Catherine of Aragon so that he could marry Anne Boleyn.
Ed standing in main gates with heraldic statues on the columns
Ed standing in main gates with heraldic statues on the columns
The Great Gatehouse or Wolsey's Gate
The Great Gatehouse or Wolsey’s Gate

Wolsey was stripped of all his positions and property and Henry happily appropriated Hampton Court, which he preferred to his own palace anyway. Henry greatly extended and rebuilt the Palace and the Northern half remains much as he left it although from time to time renovated and titivated by his successors up to the time of the Stuarts.
The Base Courtyard with the wine fountain - a later addition
The Base Courtyard with the wine fountain – a later addition
View from the Base Courtyard with Henry VIII's Great Hall on the left and Anne Boleyn Gate on right
View from the Base Courtyard with Henry VIII’s Great Hall on the left and Anne Boleyn Gate on right
The Puritan Republicans under Cromwell (a puritanical lot) did a bit of self righteous pillaging and desecrating till Cromwell himself put a stop to it having decided that, after all, it was a nice little weekender – for himself naturally. We viewed parts of the old Tudor Palace and the later part built by William as well as the gardens.
Ante room to the Great Hall
Ante room to the Great Hall
Henry VIII's Great Hall built in 1532.  The last and greatest medieval hall
Henry VIII’s Great Hall built in 1532. The last and greatest medieval hall
The Hammer beam ceiling
The Hammer beam ceiling
Henry VIII's kitchen serving 600 meals twice a day
Henry VIII’s kitchen serving 600 meals twice a day
34a Hamptn food
The Clock Court
The Clock Court
The Astronomical Clock. Installed in 1540  it displays hour, month, day of month, position of the sun, 12 signs of the zodiac, number of days elapsed since beginning of the year, phases of the moon, age of the moon in days, hour when the moon crosses the meridian and thus high water at London Bridge.  Most important as preferred method of transport at the time was barge
The Astronomical Clock. Installed in 1540 it displays hour, month, day of month, position of the sun, 12 signs of the zodiac, number of days elapsed since beginning of the year, phases of the moon, age of the moon in days, hour when the moon crosses the meridian and thus high water at London Bridge. Most important as preferred method of transport at the time was barge

The next great builders were William III and Mary after their military coup that displaced James II. They employed Christopher Wren to rebuild the Palace but balked at his wish to demolish the whole place and start again due to the cost so just the Southern half was rebuilt in the contemporary baroque style. About half way through they gave Wren the push and passed the job to his deputy, William Talman who had given a cheaper quote and finished the job under budget. Goodness we could do with someone like William the Dutchman in Canberra couldn’t we?
Staircase to King William III's State Rooms
Staircase to King William III’s State Rooms
Ceiling of staircase
Ceiling of staircase
Entrance to King's State Apartments
Entrance to King’s State Apartments
Weapons in the Guard Room
Weapons in the Guard Room
40 Weapons
Portrait of King William in King's Presence Chamber
Portrait of King William in King’s Presence Chamber
King's Presence Chamber
King’s Presence Chamber
King's Withdrawing Room
King’s Withdrawing Room
King's Great Bedchamber
King’s Great Bedchamber
The Royal Throne
The Royal Throne
King's Eating Room
King’s Eating Room
King's Private Drawing Room and Dining Room
King’s Private Drawing Room and Dining Room
45 Hampton King's private dining room
Painting of Queen Anne being crowned by the gods Britannia and Neptune on the ceiling of Queen's Drawing Room
Painting of Queen Anne being crowned by the gods Britannia and Neptune on the ceiling of Queen’s Drawing Room
The Communication Gallery linked the King and Queen's Apartments lined with nine portraits known as  'The Windsor Beauties'
The Communication Gallery linked the King and Queen’s Apartments lined with nine portraits known as ‘The Windsor Beauties’

William of Orange (in Holland) was James II son in law and his wife Mary was first in line of succession to the English throne until James finally produced a son. This heightened fears of a return to Catholic rule and William decided to make a bid for the throne of England; in this he was encouraged by powerful figures in England. In November 1689 he landed in England and just to be sure of his welcome he brought along 15,000 of his best friends, suitably armed. William and Mary were crowned as joint monarchs in January 1689; James having departed for France after many of his most powerful courtiers changed sides.
The Orangery leading to outside
The Orangery leading to outside
From William III's apartments we went down through the Fountain Courtyard to the gardens
From William III’s apartments we went down through the Fountain Courtyard to the gardens
The Privy Gardens seen from upstairs
The Privy Gardens seen from upstairs
The Tijou Gates at the river end of the Privy Gardens
The Tijou Gates at the river end of the Privy Gardens
Ed in the Privy Garden at the south front of Hampton Court Palace
Ed in the Privy Garden at the south front of Hampton Court Palace
First Pond Garden
First Pond Garden
First Pond Garden seen from the other end with William's Eating House at the end
First Pond Garden seen from the other end with William’s Eating House at the end
Second Pond Garden
Second Pond Garden
More than 230 years old and over 36 metres long, the Great Vine is the oldest and largest known vine in the world
More than 230 years old and over 36 metres long, the Great Vine is the oldest and largest known vine in the world

After George II Hampton Court fell out of use by British Monarchs and during Victoria’s reign it was restored and opened to the public.

We returned to London by train and got off at the West End where we were to attend, at St. Martin’s theatre, the 26,059th performance of Agatha Christie’s “The Mousetrap”, the world’s longest running play. First we hunted round for a reasonable meal which was much more difficult than we expected. Although there were myriad eateries of varied description, very few were particularly inviting and all were packed. Eventually we claimed a back room table in a pub cum restaurant and had a rather ordinary meal.

As you would expect in England, which seems to have an inexhaustible supply of character actors, the play was very well presented and acted and we enjoyed it very much. We are not allowed to tell you whodunit – that’s a secret. After the performance we were pretty well worn out so got a taxi home.
56 Mousetrap 257 Mousetrap
Thursday was our last day in London, with our flight departing in the evening, so we packed up and then went in to town to the Horse Guards Parade to watch the changing of the Guard. Very picturesque, and impressive when you consider that most of the young troopers had never set eyes on a horse, never mind ridden one, until they joined the Army.

The New Guard emerging from the Barracks
The New Guard emerging from the Barracks
New Guard on Parade
New Guard on Parade
The Old Guard returning
The Old Guard returning
The Hand over
The Hand over
Keeping on eye on the changeover
Keeping on eye on the changeover

After that we walked up through St James Park, past Buck Palace with more crowds and troops marching to and fro, on up to Hyde Park Corner and then to Harrods. Here we enjoyed lunch – very swanky – and did a little shopping. Bought a train for Mike and some scarves for each of our sons. I only checked the price tag on the first I picked up and bought four of our pick on that basis so got a bit of a surprise at the checkout! The boys did very nicely out of that!
Gurkha Band leaving the Palace
Gurkha Band leaving the Palace
Grenadier Guard band
Grenadier Guard band
Seeing the sights in style!
Seeing the sights in style!

Then it was time to go back to the flat and meet our hire car for Heathrow, followed by the usual mind and bum numbing flight back to our side of the planet. Ben met us at the airport and we went back to their place to see Claire and the girls and then made our way home. It was perfect day on Moreton Bay as we crossed on the ferry: “Hmmm….pretty nice here; why did we leave?”. But it was a fantastic trip; we enjoyed every bit of it.

Day 4 – Off to Oxford and Blenheim Castle

On Monday morning Lyndal opted for a leisurely start to the day and I took the underground and visited the Natural History Museum for a couple of hours. Like the Maritime Museum, this is a place that could occupy you for the whole day. Unfortunately a special exhibit on this public holiday meant a massive queue for the section which housed the Charles Darwin centre, but nevertheless I strolled through some fascinating halls of exhibits before returning to home base in time for us to catch the 1.00pm train up to Oxford.

Natural History exhibits
Natural History exhibits
natural history 1 On arrival we first went to pick up our hire car, at which point we had a most unfortunate attack of the miserlys: we declined to pay the 12 quid extra for a GPS reasoning it was only a small place – how hard could it be. Well, as we found to our cost how wrong you could be. Oxford would have to be the worst town in the UK to drive in – and that’s saying something. One ways, no ways, pedestrian only streets, restricted access – it had it all. So our progress (and regress) was marked by curses, mutterings, querulous questions and increasingly short answers.

Eventually, and just in time, we found our way to the River Thames for our date with the punt. We had hired punt plus driver, as we had heard that punting was not as simple as it looks, and expected some husky young undergraduate would be propelling the craft. We were a little surprised then when our punter turned out to be a slight and diminutive young schoolgirl. However she was a very competent young lady with the punt and took us on a peaceful hour-long tour up and down the river.

Collecting our canal boat
Collecting our canal boat
Our professional punter - note the smile on Edgar's face
Our professional punter – note the smile on Edgar’s face
And Lyndal was having a good time too!
And Lyndal was having a good time too!
It was a pleasant and mild late afternoon and there were lots of punts out on the water, many obviously in the hands of beginners. When we saw all the difficulties they were in we were very pleased to have a skilled punter. Many a muttered curse was heard out on the water including: “whose idea was this…”. One crew had given up altogether and were pulling themselves along the bank by clutching weeds and tree roots etc. After a while we left the crowds behind and cruised the quieter reaches – all in all a very pleasant hour.
Many punters out on the water
Many punters out on the water
Total chaos
Total chaos
Quiet stretches of the canal
Quiet stretches of the canal
We then found our way to the B&B (with only one wrong turn), a nice establishment in a semi rural setting. Dinner was at the “Royal Sun”, a 17th century inn just up the road. Their speciality was the “deep dish pie” which naturally we had to have, and rashly ordered entree as well having had no lunch. Result: thoroughly over indulged in food once again!
With a view of fields out the window - a lovely rural scene
With a view of fields out the window – a lovely rural scene
The Royal Sun - home of the deep dish pie!
The Royal Sun – home of the deep dish pie!
In the morning it was off to Blenheim Palace.
Blenheim Palace
Blenheim Palace
John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, probably Britain’s greatest ever field commander, was voted the land and means to build the palace by a grateful Monarch and Parliament in 1705. It was a reward for his most famous victory at Blenheim, on the upper Danube, as commander of the Allied Army in the War of Spanish Succession.
One of the Blenheim tapestries depicting the battle
One of the Blenheim tapestries depicting the battle
Notes from the Duke of Marlborough on the great victory
Notes from the Duke of Marlborough on the great victory
Planned on a most stupendous scale, building commenced in 1705. Unfortunately the Churchills had failed to read the fine print and no definitive amount had been stipulated in the Act of Parliament. As the cost of the building mounted, funds were doled out in an increasingly niggardly fashion. Nothing erodes gratitude and friendship like money problems and in the end, in 1711, Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough who had been close friend and confidant of Queen Anne for many years, had a spectacular falling out with the Queen. The Churchills thought it politic to remove themselves to Europe for a time and all work on the building halted until their return in 1714 after the Queen’s death. Sadly the Duke did not live to fully enjoy his reward; after a succession of strokes he died in 1722 with Blenheim Palace still incomplete.
John Churchill 1st Duke of Marlborough
John Churchill 1st Duke of Marlborough
Sarah Churhill Duchess of Marlborough
Sarah Churhill Duchess of Marlborough

The Duchess Sarah, reputedly temperamental, but also fiercely loyal to her husband and determined to see Blenheim Palace completed as his memorial, battled on and finally saw the building substantially complete by 1733, although some work was still going on in 1735. When she died in 1744 she and her husband were interred together in the Palace chapel.

Blenheim Chapel
Blenheim Chapel
In 1874 Winston Churchill, grandson of the 7th Duke, was born Blenheim Palace during a visit by his parents.

We had booked a tour of the private apartments, which turned out to be very informative as we were the only ones on the tour and had the undivided attention of our knowledgeable tour guide. As we toured the rooms we were given the low down on the past occupants – in particular Consuelo Vanderbilt.

A noted beauty of the day
A noted beauty of the day
Her marriage to Charles Spencer-Churchill, 9th Duke of Marlborough became an international emblem of the socially advantageous, but loveless, marriages common during the Gilded Age.

Determined to secure the highest-ranking mate possible for her only daughter, a union that would emphasize the preeminence of the Vanderbilt family in New York society, Alva Vanderbilt engineered a meeting between Consuelo and the financially embarrassed land-owning Charles Spencer-Churchill, 9th Duke of Marlborough, chatelaine of Blenheim Palace.

Unfortunately Consuelo Vanderbilt had no interest in the duke, being secretly engaged to an American, Winthrop Rutherfurd. Her mother cajoled, wheedled, begged, and then, ultimately, ordered her daughter to marry Marlborough. When Consuelo – a docile teenager whose only notable characteristic at the time was abject obedience to her fearsome mother – made plans to elope, she was locked in her room and Alva threatened to have Rutherfurd murdered (when we were in Newport a couple of years ago we were shown through the Vanderbilt mansion and the room where she was incarcerated).

Her bedroom at "The Breakers" where she was incarcerated
Her bedroom at “The Breakers” where she was incarcerated
Still, she refused. It was only when Alva Vanderbilt claimed that her health was being seriously and irretrievably undermined by Consuelo’s stubbornness and appeared to be on death’s door that the malleable girl acquiesced. Alva made an astonishing recovery from her entirely phantom illness, and when the wedding took place, Consuelo stood at the altar reportedly weeping behind her veil. The duke, for his part, gave up the woman he reportedly loved back in England and collected US$2.5 million (approximately US$67.7 million in 2015 dollars) in railroad stock as a marriage settlement plus a settlement each year.
The unhappy couple and family
The unhappy couple and family

The silver epergne that Consuelo placed in the middle of the table to block out her despised husband
The silver epergne that Consuelo placed in the middle of the table to block out the sight of her despised husband
We then joined the main tour of all the public rooms of the palace before inspecting the gardens.
The Duke of Marlborough
Portraits of the family throughout – The 4th Duke of Marlborough
The library with a statue of Queen Anne
The library with a statue of Queen Anne
Library Ceiling
Library Ceiling
Family cradle
Family cradle
The dining room
The dining room
It is a most impressive castle and well worth a visit. We could have spent a full day there.
The gardens
The gardens
blenheim 1blenheim
We headed back to Oxford to hand in our car and join a walking tour of the Colleges.
Country cottage with roses round the door
Country cottage with roses round the door
Oxford canal
Oxford canal
Having allowed nearly two hours for the fifteen minute drive plus a relaxed lunch, we ran into a horrendous Oxford traffic snarl and only just made it to our tour in time to start. We met our guide Stuart from Oxford Walking Tours outside Trinity College and then strolled through Exeter,
Exeter quad
Exeter quad
Exeter Chapel
Exeter Chapel
Entrance to Exeter Chapel
Entrance to Exeter Chapel
Inside the Chapel
Inside the Chapel
Jesus (noting the portrait of T.E.Lawrence (of Arabia) in the dining hall, together with many former British PM’s)
Jesus main quad
Jesus main quad
Jesus second quad
Jesus second quad
Jesus hall
Jesus hall
Lawrence of Arabia
Lawrence of Arabia
then past the Divinity School and Bodelean Library,
Boolean Library and Divinity School
Boolean Library and Divinity School
The Radcliffe Camera - part of the Bodleian Library
The Radcliffe Camera – part of the Bodleian Library
Reading rooms inside the Radcliffe Camera
Reading rooms inside the Radcliffe Camera
through Hertford,
Hertford Quad
Hertford Quad
Bridge of Sighs joining two of Hertford College buildings
Bridge of Sighs joining two of Hertford College buildings
Balliol
Balliol College quad
Balliol College quad
Entrance to Balliol Hall
Entrance to Balliol Hall
Balliol Hall
Balliol Hall
Johns
Johns Quad
Johns Quad
Inside John's Chapel
Inside John’s Chapel
and back to Trinity, finishing our tour there.

After the tour it was back to the Railway Station for the train back to London and our home away from home.

London Week – Day 3

On Sunday we boarded the tour bus again at Marble Arch and did a more complete circuit of London.

Vertical Garden
Vertical Garden
Animals at War Memorial
Animals at War Memorial
Parliament Square
Parliament Square
Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster
Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster
Westminster Pier
Westminster Pier
Medieval looking central London rooftops of historic buildings near Whitehall
Medieval looking central London rooftops of historic buildings near Whitehall
We crisscrossed the Thames seeing the sights of London and passing many of the historic buildings.
Tower Bridge from London Bridge
Tower Bridge from London Bridge
The Shipwrights Arms
The Shipwrights Arms
Downtown London
Downtown London

The weather was less rainy and from our seats on the top of the bus we got a good view.
The Tower of London
The Tower of London
Hung Drawn and Quartered Pub
Hung Drawn and Quartered Pub
The old Billingsgate Fish markets
The old Billingsgate Fish markets
Reliefs carved on All Hallows Church
Reliefs carved on All Hallows Church
Heading for St Paul's Cathedral
Heading for St Paul’s Cathedral
St Pauls was closed to public tours due to Sunday services, and the Tower was reputed to take the best part of the day to tour so bypassed those
St Paul's Cathedral
St Paul’s Cathedral
Statue of Queen Anne outside St Paul's
Statue of Queen Anne outside St Paul’s
and got off near Whitehall to see the “Churchill War Rooms”, the bunker built under Whitehall which was the meeting place of the War Cabinet and the nerve centre of the British war effort in World War 2.
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Churchill's Statue
Churchill’s Statue

After that we walked on past the Horse Guards parade ground to Trafalgar Square again and then sought out a meal once again in Villiers Street, before catching the underground back to our home away from home.
The Citadel - a huge concrete bunker covered in ivy near Horseguard's Parade
The Citadel – a huge concrete bunker covered in ivy near Horseguard’s Parade
Admiralty Arch
Admiralty Arch
Villiers Street and the way home
Villiers Street and the way home

Tomorrow to Oxford…………..

London Week – Days 1 & 2

London: If it was not for Westminster Abbey, the Albert Memorial, Museum of Natural History, the Horse Guards, West End, etc, etc, etc,…. you might conclude that London was just another big city and a fairly grubby one at that. The most jarring first impression was the bin-less garbage disposal which meant sidewalks were lined with heaps of garbage bags. Boris really should do something about it.
However there would surely be only one or two other cities in the world (if any) that one could leave after a busy week feeling that much was left undone. Certainly none that I have been to before.

After the intense experience of Chelsea Flower Show we had a late start and then moved up to our flat in Bayswater, walking up through Hyde Park to meet the agent.

Albert Hall
Albert Hall
Gates to Hyde Park
Gates to Hyde Park
On the way we passed the Albert Memorial (stupendous)
Albert Memorial
Albert Memorial
Albert Memorial
Albert Memorial
Marble figures representing  Asia on one corner of the memorial
Marble figures representing Asia on one corner of the memorial
Looking back on the Albert Memorial with the Albert Hall behind
Looking back on the Albert Memorial with the Albert Hall behind
and the Princess Diana Memorial, a unique and interesting circular water feature.thumb_P1030488_1024
Princess Diana Fountain
Princess Diana Fountain
Signs everywhere encourage people (especially children) to paddle in the fountain
Signs everywhere encourage people (especially children) to paddle in the fountain
There are Diana memorials dotted all over the city – an indication of the enormous impact she had on people’s memories.
Rotten Row
Rotten Row
Walking the dogs
Walking the dogs

After our exploration of Hyde Park we met up with our agent and moved into 70 Inverness Terrace, Bayswater. Done up on the cheap, it was nevertheless spacious and very well situated.
Our apartment (complete with ubiquitous rubbish bags in front
Our apartment (complete with ubiquitous rubbish bags in front
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The next day, Friday, I took myself off to Greenwich while Lyndal had a bit of R&R at the flat after putting in a big week of walking round the gardens. First, the clipper ship Cutty Sark, now rebuilt after all decks and masts were burnt out in a tragic fire some years back. Luckily Cutty Sark was a late era composite design with timber hull and decks on steel frames so the framework survived as well as the hull, otherwise she would have been a total writeoff.
Cutty Sark
Cutty Sark
Rigging
Rigging

Cutty Sark and her rival clipper ships like Thermopylae were built for the premium tea trade where bonuses were paid for early delivery of the new crop. In fact winning the “tea race” attracted great prestige for a shipping line and almost became an end in itself. Unfortunately for Cutty Sark her launch coincided with the opening of the Suez Canal and steamers soon captured the tea trade, so after a few voyages to China Cutty Sark moved to the Australian wool trade where she recorded the fastest time ever for a sail powered merchant ship London to Sydney : 72 days.
Then up the hill to the Royal Observatory to stand on the “0” degree longitude, the reference line longitude for international time and navigation. thumb_P1020175_1024
Prime Meridian
Prime Meridian
thumb_P1020172_1024After that signal experience, down the hill again to the Maritime Museum. You could spend the whole day in this building and I only had two hours sampling the various displays, models, and artwork.
Maritime Museum
Maritime Museum
Models in Museum
Models in Museum

Then back home to the flat in time to join up with Lyndal and catch the underground to Victoria and the Victoria Palace theatre to see Elton John’s musical “Billy Elliott” – a great show with many fantastic dance scenes. Afterwards we hunted around for a decent meal without much success – eventually lobbing in to a Spanish style joint before heading home.
On Saturday we first went to Argyll Rd in Kensington to look at No 7 where Lyndal lived with her family in the late sixties. thumb_P1020195_1024thumb_P1020193_1024Then we got on the red tour bus
Harrods
Harrods
Speakers Corner
Speakers Corner
Marble Arch
Marble Arch
as far as Westminster Abbey via the new RAF Bomber Command Memorial at Hyde Park Corner.
Bomber Command Memorial
Bomber Command Memorial
A tour of the Abbey is a tour of 1,000 years of history via the many people: monarchs, famous scientists, statesmen, politicians and poets, and many others more or less obscure, who are interred and /or memorialised there. In all there are over 600 memorials and tablets in the Abbey, and over 3,000 people are buried there. It surpassed all my expectations.
Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey
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Tomb of the Unknown Warrior
Tomb of the Unknown Warrior

We then made our way to Embankment and Villiers St., looking for Gordon’s Wine Bar, an 1890 establishment which serves wine in the cellar, but found it packed – standing room only – so sought out another spot in the street lined with various eateries and bars where we could actually get a table and chair.
After a pleasant dinner accompanied by a couple of glasses of wine we visited Trafalgar Square, viewed Nelson’s column and contemplated immortality
Victorious football crowd at The Admiralty opposite Trafalgar Square - the rest were sitting on the lions!
Victorious football crowd at The Admiralty opposite Trafalgar Square – the rest were sitting on the lions!
Nelson's Column
Nelson’s Column
Bronze lions on each corner of Nelsons Column
Bronze lions on each corner of Nelsons Column
Bronze reliefs
Bronze reliefs
Nelson's death
Nelson’s death
Edgar contemplating immortality
Edgar contemplating immortality

Our objective for the evening was St Martin’s in the Fields, which once was indeed in the fields between London and Westminster. Rebuilt in 1722, it now stands next to Trafalgar Square. Here we listened the choral and orchestral performance of Mozart’s Requiem – quite a beautiful way to spend the evening.thumb_P1030562_1024
St Martins in the Field
St Martins in the Field
The beautiful ceiling
The beautiful ceiling
The Organ
The Organ
Sculpture outside the Church
Sculpture outside the Church
Coffee underneath the Church
Coffee underneath the Church

Tomorrow it’s back on the Big Red Bus to see more of London

Chelsea – Things that caught our eye

Some just caught our eye.……

Robert James Sculptures
Robert James Sculptures

Harrods Perfume Display
Harrods The Fragrance Garden

Some we need to win gold lotto.………
Amazing Driftwood Sculptures by James Doran Webbthumb_P1030219_1024thumb_P1030217_1024

David Harber Sculptures
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David
David

Woven metal horse sculpture by Ruper Tillthumb_P1030227_1024

‘Ephemera’ by Simon Gudgeon Sculpture by the Lakesthumb_P1030325_1024

Michael Speller Sculpturesthumb_P1030346_1024

The two way stream A glass sheet separates the water which runs down on the top layer and is pumped back on the bottom – awesome!thumb_P1030472_1024

The Royal Rocking Horse Companythumb_P1020134_1024 thumb_P1020133_1024

Giles Rayner Water Sculptureswhirlpool-copper-bowl-sculpture

Giles Rayner

Coral-water-sculpture-2002-original

Some are on our long term list (maybe)………

The Firepit Companythumb_P1030369_1024The Africa Ball.thumb_P1030370_1024

Enchanted Earth Wind Spinnersthumb_P1030224_1024 thumb_P1030225_1024

Willie Wildlife Birdbathsthumb_P1030233_1024

Gaze Burvill oak tree seatthumb_P1030282_1024

Green Meadow Furniturethumb_P1030376_1024

Waterfall wallthumb_P1020019_1024

and some we are either already implementing or have scheduled……..

Quist tree fountains
Quist tree fountains
Mirror sided planter in the pool
Mirror sided planter in the pool
Spillage from the outlet pipes
Spillage from the outlet pipes
Fairy Door
Fairy Door
Garden Pond
Garden Pond
The black stemmed agapanthus - coming next year
The black stemmed agapanthus – coming next year
Living walls
Living walls
Driftwood Chair
Driftwood Chair
Stick Hedge
Stick Hedge
Strawberry Planter
Strawberry Planter
Butterfly Mirror
Butterfly Mirror

and now all we need is a boat!!!

Chelsea – The Royal Pavilion

To describe the Royal Pavilion is impossible so I’ll let the photos do the talking. These are some of the 600+ photos we took that day!

Ornamental bananas
Ornamental bananas
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Alliums like you've never seen them before
Alliums like you’ve never seen them before
A carnivorous collection
A carnivorous collection
Tulipomania
The 8ft Tulipomania
The 8ft Tulipomania
Streptocarpus
Streptocarpus
Streptocarpus Polka Dot Purple - Best of Species
Streptocarpus Polka Dot Purple – Best of Species
Meconopsis punicea 'Sichuan Silk' Meconopsis is a genus of flowering plants in the poppy family.
Meconopsis punicea ‘Sichuan Silk’. Meconopsis is a genus of flowering plants in the poppy family.
Meconopsis Himalayan Blue Orchid
Meconopsis Himalayan Blue Orchid
A display of Heucheras
A display of Heucheras
Delphiniums and Begonias
Delphiniums and Begonias
Anthuriums and Ananas
Anthuriums and Ananas
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Orchids and Bromeliads well represented
Orchids and Bromeliads well represented
Alstroemerias
Alstroemerias
We can see this reed and protea garden at Straddie
We can see this reed and protea garden at Straddie
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Displays from the Caribbean
Displays from the Caribbean
A couple of badgers
A couple of badgers
Love this display of grasses - Straddie material
Love this display of grasses – Straddie material
Cactii
Cactii
Lupins
Lupins
Chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemums
Hyacinths
Hyacinths
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Clematis
Clematis
Daffodils
Daffodils
And lets not forget the potatoes
And lets not forget the potatoes

There was plenty more ………..thumb_P1030393_1024thumb_P1030381_1024thumb_P1020128_1024thumb_P1020126_1024thumb_P1020122_1024

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And then there was the Floristy section…thumb_P1020093_1024

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Rain around lunchtime brought the crowds into the Pavilion so it was time to meet up with the others and seek out some lunch. Fanning out we managed to secure a table where we partook of lunch washed down by jugs of Pimms and followed by plates of strawberries.
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pimmms
Feeling a lot more mellow we went back into the Pavilion to finish the exhibits and then down to where the orchestras were playing to listen to some music. For the next couple of hours we wandered through the outside exhibits and then on to the trade exhibitions, ending up in the Artisan Gardens where the crowd was about 10 deep and increasing.
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At 3pm another wave of people came through the gates and the crowd was so thick that we decided to call it a day and head back to our hotel.

To say that we enjoyed Chelsea is an understatement. There was so much to see and all very inspiring. We came away with so many ideas to try at home we will be going for the next 50 years!

Next blog shows some of those ideas – and some of the things that caught our eye!

Chelsea – the Gardens

The RHS Chelsea Flower Show has been held in the grounds of the Chelsea Hospital every year since 1913, apart from gaps during the two World Wars. Formerly the RHS Great Spring Flower Show, it was first held in 1862 in the now vanished RHS garden in Kensington, later moving to the Temple Gardens before moving to its current site. This year is its 93rd Show.

Whilst the Flower Show at Hampton Court is bigger, the RHS Chelsea Flower Show is still viewed as the most important event in the horticultural calendar and is as popular as ever. In 1979 the turnstiles had to be closed due to overcrowding and since then there has been a limit on the number of tickets sold. With enormous media attention and exhibitor waiting lists longer than ever, there seems no sign of this appetite abating.

The Special Group Tour had made us all members of the Royal Horticultural Society so that we could attend the day before it officially opened – somewhere between the Royal Family and the general public.

Under advice we were there the minute the gates opened in the morning and headed straight for the Exhibition Gardens. Over the next couple of hours we managed to get a good look at all of them, photographing them and taking careful notes of the features in our favourites.

The Show GardensThe Show Gardens are a highlight of the show and always generate a huge amount of worldwide media interest

Best in Show – The Laurent-Perrier Chatsworth Gardenthumb_P1030238_1024

Viewed from all sides the garden creates a representation of a small, less trodden part of the 105-acre Chatsworth Garden and is inspired by Chatsworth’s ornamental Trout Stream and Paxton’s rockery.
Viewed from all sides the garden creates a representation of a small, less trodden part of the 105-acre Chatsworth Garden and is inspired by Chatsworth’s ornamental Trout Stream and Paxton’s rockery.

Gold Medal Winners
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The Morgan Stanley Healthy Cities Garden - to be relocated to form part of a community garden in London
The Morgan Stanley Healthy Cities Garden – to be relocated to form part of a community garden in London

The Homebase Urban Retreat Garden
The Homebase Urban Retreat Garden

The Telegraph Garden
The Telegraph Garden

The Cloudy Bay Garden
The Cloudy Bay Garden
Close-up of Cloudy Bay window
Close-up of Cloudy Bay window

The Brewin Dolphin Garden
The Brewin Dolphin Garden

A Perfumer's Garden in Grasse by L'Occitane. Liked the comment by unload gentleman - 'I just don't get it.  It's just dirt and weeds'
A Perfumer’s Garden in Grasse by L’Occitane. Liked the comment by an elderly gentleman ‘I just don’t get it. It’s just dirt and weeds’

Silver Gilt Winners
The Time in Between. Probably our favourite garden and ironically the only Australian entrant
Charlie Albone has designed this garden as a space to tell his late father about his life since his passing.  The first section celebrates life with beautiful and romantic planting; the water feature in the next section reflects the emotions felt at the loss of someone close, as it can empty in a matter of seconds; and the rear of the garden is an intimate space to sit, connect and communicate with loved ones
The Time in Between. Probably our favourite garden and ironically the only Australian entrant. Charlie Albone has designed this garden as a space to tell his late father about his life since his passing. The first section celebrates life with beautiful and romantic planting; the water feature in the next section reflects the emotions felt at the loss of someone close, as it can empty in a matter of seconds; and the rear of the garden is an intimate space to sit, connect and communicate with loved ones

Hidden Beauty of Kranji Garden
Hidden Beauty of Kranji Garden

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The Beauty of Islam Garden
The Beauty of Islam Garden

The Royal Bank of Canada
The Royal Bank of Canada

Hope in Vulnerability - Prince Harry's garden and The Peoples Choice for Best in Show (was it the garden or was it Harry)
Hope in Vulnerability – Prince Harry’s garden and The Peoples Choice for Best in Show (was it the garden or was it Harry?)

M & G Garden Retreat
M & G Garden Retreat
Flowers in M&G Garden
Flowers in M&G Garden

Living Legacy Garden - not too sure about this one
Living Legacy Garden – not too sure about this one

The Fresh GardensEngaging and different, Fresh Gardens complement more traditional Chelsea exhibits and reveal new ideas and styles.

Dark Matter Garden - Best in Show
Dark Matter Garden – Best in Show

Breakthrough Breast Cancer Garden - Winner Peoples Choice
Breakthrough Breast Cancer Garden – Winner Peoples Choice

Lyndal & Edgar’s favourites
The World Vision Garden
Represents rice fields in Cambodia
The World Vision Garden which represents rice fields in Cambodia

Personal Universe Garden - just love the fountain
Personal Universe Garden – just love the fountain

Pure Garden - something a bit different
Pure Garden – something a bit different

Artisan GardensTruly enchanting and imaginative, Artisan Gardens reflect both traditional and modern approaches, using artisan methods and natural materials from sustainable sources – all in a small plot.

Breast Cancer Garden
Breast Cancer Garden

The Edo Garden. The Edo period in Japan was a time when horticulture became open to all Japanese people, and this garden reflects that moment; it is a garden designed for everyone, regardless of their class or wealth
The Edo Garden. The Edo period in Japan was a time when horticulture became open to all Japanese people, and this garden reflects that moment; it is a garden designed for everyone, regardless of their class or wealth

Pilot
The Evaders Garden.The designer’s father was an RAF evader who was helped to freedom by ordinary French citizens after being shot down in 1943.  Inspired by these acts of selfless bravery, the garden’s design reflects the bond between helper and evader.   A sculpture of a young pilot, seconds after parachuting into France, hides in the ruins of a war-damaged church.  His eyes look up to a stained glass window where two young French people are reaching out to help him.  The wall has a code poem engraved into a tablet, along with names of Resistance fighters.
The Evaders Garden.The designer’s father was an RAF evader who was helped to freedom by ordinary French citizens after being shot down in 1943. Inspired by these acts of selfless bravery, the garden’s design reflects the bond between helper and evader.
A sculpture of a young pilot, seconds after parachuting into France, hides in the ruins of a war-damaged church. His eyes look up to a stained glass window where two young French people are reaching out to help him. The wall has a code poem engraved into a tablet, along with names of Resistance fighters.

The Sculptors' Picnic
The Sculptors’ Picnic

By 10.30 am the crowd had swelled to the extent that getting a good look was near impossible so we decided to check out the Royal Pavilion where the crowd was minimal.

Day 6

The following day saw us at Stow-on-the-Wold, which is a delightful market town and perhaps one of the best known of the small Costwold towns.
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Stow-on-the-Wold is the highest of the Cotswold towns standing exposed on 800 feet high Stow Hill at a junction of seven major roads, including the Roman Fosse Way. At the height of the Cotswold wool industry the town was famous for its huge annual fairs where as many as 20,000 sheep were sold at one time.

Narrow alleyways leading to the church
Narrow alleyways leading to the church
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An ancient rhyme reads:-
“Stowe-on-the-Wold, Where the wind blows cold.
Where horses young and old are sold,
Where farmers come to spend their gold.
Where men are fools and women are bold
……and many a wicked tale is told.
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The vast Market Square testifies to the town’s former importance. At one end stands the ancient cross, and at the other, the town stocks, shaded between an old elm tree. Around the square the visitor is faced with an elegant array of townhouses and shops

From Stoke-on-the-Wold it was off to the final gardens of our tour – Waterperry Gardens and then on to Kew Gardens.

Waterperry Gardens were home to the renowned horticultural college between 1932 and 1971 and the emphasis was on food production rather than spectacular ornamental gardens.
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Over the past twenty years the gardens have developed and grown and many new projects have been undertaken and completed. You’ll now find a Formal Garden, the Mary Rose Garden, a Waterlily Canal and the Long Colour Border, and they recently planted a small arboretum in the meadow area beyond the canal.
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Waterperry is now a lovely place to visit, where you are surrounded by beautiful tree, shrubs and flowers, classical borders, modern planting, secret corners and long vistas.
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Pat indicating the way out
Pat indicating the way out

Our final stop for the day, and for the tour, was Kew Gardens where we were scheduled to have a guided tour and afternoon tea.

Some excellent driving through drenching rain by our driver, Tom, got us to the gate of the Royal Botanical Garden Kew to meet our guide who braved the rain to show us some of the notable trees and features.
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The origins of Kew Gardens can be traced to the merging of the royal estates of Richmond and Kew in 1772. In 1840 the gardens were adopted as a national botanical garden, in large part due to the efforts of the Royal Horticultural Society and its president William Cavendish. Under Kew’s director, William Hooker, the gardens were increased to 30 hectares (75 acres) and the pleasure grounds, or arboretum, extended to 109 hectares (270 acres), and later to its present size of 121 hectares (300 acres).

In passing we saw many of the attractions that, due to the inclement weather, we were destined not to visit.

Seen in the distance was the Chineses Pagoda, which was one of the jewels in the crown of Georgian London. It was so unusual that a suspicious public were unconvinced it would remain standing when it was built in 1762. Designed at the height of the 18th century craze for Chinoiserie, it tapers with successive floors from the first to the topmost being 1ft less (30 cm) in diameter and height than the preceding one.

Chinese Pagoda
Chinese Pagoda

The original building was very colourful; the roofs being covered with varnished iron plates, with a dragon on each corner. There were 80 dragons in all, each carved from wood and gilded with real gold. The eye-catching dragons were the talk of the town for 20 years, before disappearing in the 1780s. They were rumoured to have been sold to pay for the Prince Regent’s debts. – however experts believe that, being made of wood simply rotted and were removed during the roof restoration.

The dragons are to be reinstated in the most comprehensive restoration of the Pagoda in its 257-year history, which is scheduled to be completed by 2017. A good time to revisit perhaps!

In passing we glimpsed The Palm House, which was built by architect Decimus Burton and iron-maker Richard Turner between 1844 and 1848, and was the first large-scale structural use of wrought iron. It is considered ” the world’s most important surviving Victorian glass and iron structure.”‪ The structure’s panes of glass are all hand-blown. ‬
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We also sighted the Temperate House, twice as large as the Palm House, which was built later in the 19th century. It is now the largest Victorian glasshouse in existence.
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However we did manage to visit the Princess of Wales Conservatory, which was commissioned in 1982 to replace a group of 26 smaller buildings that were falling into disrepair. It was named after Princess Augusta, founder of Kew, and opened in 1987 by Diana, Princess of Wales. It is the most complex conservatory at Kew, containing ten computer-controlled climatic zones under one roof. It was also warm and dry!!
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The two main climate zones are the ‘dry tropics’, representing the world’s warm, arid areas, and the ‘wet tropics’, housing moisture loving plants from ecosystems such as rainforests and mangrove swamps. The eight remaining microclimates include a seasonally dry zone containing desert and savanna plants, plus sections for carnivorous plants, ferns and orchids.
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The southern end is heated more by the sun than the northern end, so this is where you find towering spikes of echiums and silver agaves from dry tropical regions such as the arid Canary Islands. The central area contains an elevated aquaria, complete with waterlily pond and the dangling roots of mangroves, plus displays of orchids and carnivorous plants. At the northern end are species from the moist tropics, including banana, pineapple, pepper and ginger. On the lower level, there are viewing windows so you can see the pond from a fish’s eye view.
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There is also a ‘time-capsule’ buried at the southern end of the conservatory. Sir David Attenborough placed it in the foundations there in 1985 as part of the World Wildlife Fund’s Plants Campaign. Containing seeds of basic food crops and endangered species, it is not due to be exhumed until 2085. By this time, many of the plants it contains may have become rare or extinct.

There are about nine water dragons that live and breed freely in Zone 1. They provide a natural means of controlling unwanted insects but tend to keep out of sight of visitors.

Whereas the Palm and Temperate Houses make grand statements with their designs, the low-lying, angular ‘glazed hill’ of the Princess of Wales house is less obtrusive. The conservatory was designed to be energy-efficient and easy to maintain and was built partly underground.

The pond within the aquaria section contains the Asian form of the giant waterlily Euryale ferox. This plant has huge leaves that can span two metres and are strong enough to take the weight of baby without sinking
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Our tour finished with a sumptuous afternoon tea in The Orangery. As its name suggests, the Orangery was designed as a hothouse to grow citrus plants.
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The building was originally designed by William Chambers who was employed by Kew founder Princess Augusta as an architect for the Gardens and a tutor to her son (the future King George III). He completed the Orangery in 1761. Built of brick and coated in durable stucco, it is the largest classical style building in the Gardens.

Low levels of light made it unsuitable for the growing of citrus and in 1841 the building’s ailing orange trees were shifted to Kensington Palace. Large glazed doors at either end of the Orangery to improve its effectiveness and it was used to house plants too big for other glasshouses.

The Orangery was converted to a tea room in 1989. It was adapted again in 2002 to its present use as a restaurant. The building is now an airy and elegant eatery. Outside of normal opening hours it is used to host corporate or special-occasion dinners.

The coat of arms above the central bay of the façade is that of Princess Augusta, founder of the Garden. This detail was added in the 1840s, along with the royal coat of arms.

In these elegant surroundings we partook of cakes, scones and cucumber sandwiches, exchanged stories and highlights and farewelled all those except our fellow Australians and adopted Canadian, who we organized to meet for lunch the next day at Chelsea
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Day Five

First stop of the day was Hidcote Manor Estate and it’s gardens – one of the best-known and most influential Arts and Crafts gardens in Britain and possibly our favourite garden of all.

Created by the talented American horticulturist, Major Lawrence Johnston, its intricately designed linked “rooms” of hedges, rare trees, shrubs and herbaceious borders are full of unexpected surprises. Lawrence Johnston’s mother bought Hidcote in 1907. He soon became interested in turning the fields around the house into a garden. By 1910 he had begun to lay out the key features of the garden, and by the 1920s he had twelve full-time gardeners working for him.

He was influenced in creating his garden at Hidcote by the work of Alfred Parsons and Gertrude Jekyll, who were designing gardens of hardy plants contained within sequences of outdoor “rooms”. Many of the plants found growing in the garden were collected from his many plant hunting trips to far away places. After World War II Johnston spent most of his time at Jardin Serre de la Madone, his garden in the south of France; and in 1947 he entrusted Hidcote to the National Trust.
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Hidcote’s outdoor “rooms” have various characters and themes, achieved by the use of box hedges, hornbeam and yew, and stone walls. These rooms, such as the ‘White Garden’ and ‘Fuchsia Garden’ are linked, some by vistas, and furnished with topiaries. Some have ponds and fountains, and all are planted with flowers in bedding schemes. 16 Hidscote

Red Border
Red Border
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Pleched trees
Pleched trees

You can spend all day exploring the maze of narrow paved pathways and discovering secret gardens and magnificent vistas. You can find a quiet spot and sit on one of the ornate benches and watch green woodpeckers search for their lunch or listen to the calls from the buzzards circling overhead. Time it right and you might catch a glimpse of the elusive hummingbird moth. It’s the perfect place if you’re in need of gardening inspiration
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Just across the road are another of Britain’s top gardens – Kiftsgate
Plan of Kiftsgate
Plan of Kiftsgate

These gardens are the creation of three generations of women gardeners. Started by Heather Muir in the 1920s, continued by Diany Binny from 1950 and now looked after by Anne Chambers and her husband, who have made it their home.
25 Kiftsgate19b Kiftsgate
Heather Muir created the garden, which up until 1920 had consisted of a paved formal garden in front of the portico, with a field and wooded banks beyond. Heather was helped and inspired by her lifelong friend Lawrence Johnston of Hidcote Manor. She decided that the garden would develop organically as she was inspired, rather than planning everything on paper. This has given the garden a distinctly feminine feel, almost in direct contrast to the more masculine lines being employed by Johnston at Hidcote. By 1930 the steep banks were tackled and the steps to the lower garden were put in place, along with the delightful summerhouse taking advantage of the views to the west.
11 Kiftsgate22 Kiftsgate29 Kiftsgate
From the mid fifties Diany continued to add to the garden by creating the semi-circular pool in the lower garden. She also commissioned two sculptures and began to open the garden on a regular basis. The white sunk garden was also redesigned by her to incorporate a small pool and a well head fountain. The well head that frames the fountain came from the Pyrenees and is carved with bucolic activities such as harvesting, hunting and wine making in each of its twelve panels.
19 Kiftsgate19a Kiftsgate24 Kiftsgate23 Kiftsgate
One of Anne’s finest accomplishments is the addition of the new water garden that was once the tennis court. This area is now an oasis of calm, where fine white stepping stones give the illusion of floating over the black pool below, leading to a grass island at the centre. To the far end, a double row of gilded bronze philodendron leaves sway gently under a cascade of running water surrounded by a curtain of yew hedging.
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The Drive to the house and car park is edged with some very old lime trees, the oldest of which date back to the original planting in the first half of the 18th century. More recent replacement of weeping limes produce a sweet scent in late summer that permeates the whole garden and which the bees find irresistible. The rough grass underneath these trees is yellow with daffodils in spring.
The other side of the drive is the Bluebell Wood, a spectacular sight in early May. This south facing bank is also planted with maples and cherries for spring and autumn colour.
Drive and Bluebell woods
In front of the house are four rectangular beds planted with a mixture of rare shrubs and perennials that give interest throughout the gardening year. From the sun dial in the middle one can look back to the fine Georgian portico on the house that was transported by light railway from the manor house in Mickleton, a mile away. Down some steps to the Terrace, there is a spectacular view towards the Malvern Hills and also down to the steep banks to the lower garden and swimming pool. On this terrace large terracotta pots are filled to the brim with plants in the summer.
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The double border on either side of the grass path is planted with a mixture of shrubs, small trees and herbaceous plants. The main colour tones in this summer border are pinks, mauve and purple with abundant grey foliage. The smaller portico overlooking this border was added in the 1920s by the Muirs. Several clumps of the ‘Burning Bush’ Dictamnus albus purpureus are to be found. On a still summer evening one can ignite their oily seed heads in a spectacular pyrotechnic display without harming the plant.
Double border
Double border

The principal shrubs in this small sunken garden all have white flowers, but the under planting is unrestrained in colour and in form. Spring flowering plants such as erythronium and trillium give way to a succession of summer flowering anenomes, helianthemums, dieramas and santolinas. The large headed allium christophii self seeds throughout this garden. The main white flowering shrubs that give the garden its name are deutzia, carpentaria, hoheria and staphyllea.

The double rose border is filled with a mixture of old fashioned, specie and modern roses. The scent in high summer is overpowering. The path running down the middle is edged with the pink striped Rosa mundi, many of which have reverted to its parent, the Apothecary’s rose. To extend the interest throughout the year, plantings of astilbes, asters and grasses add further texture and form.
The original Kiftsgate rose grows in this border enveloping three trees and is a magnificent sight in early July with sprays of white flowers cascading to the ground.

Kiftsgate Rose
Kiftsgate Rose

Day Four

Off bright and early the next morning to the next unscheduled event on our magical mystery tour we passed Silbury Hill on the way to Avebury Henge

Silbury Hill
Silbury Hill

At 30 metres (98 ft) high, Silbury Hill is the tallest prehistoric human-made mound in Europe and one of the largest in the world; it is similar in size to some of the smaller Egyptian pyramids of Giza. Made of chalk it is now grassed over but originally would have gleamed white and been visible for miles. Its original purpose is still highly debated but legend has it that it was the final resting place of King Sil.

Avebury is a Neolithic henge monument containing three stone circles, around the village of Avebury in Wiltshire. One of the best known prehistoric sites in Britain, it contains the largest stone circle in Europe. It is both a tourist attraction and a place of religious importance to contemporary Pagans.

Avebury Henge
Avebury Henge
23 avebury henge
Constructed around 2600 BCE, during the Neolithic, or ‘New Stone Age’, the monument comprises a large henge (a bank and a ditch) with a large outer stone circle and two separate smaller stone circles situated inside the center of the monument.
Walking the chalk path
Walking the chalk path
A barn at Avebury
A barn at Avebury
The Sun Inn at Avebury
The Sun Inn at Avebury

Its original purpose is unknown, although archaeologists believe that it was most likely used for some form of ritual or ceremony. The Avebury monument was a part of a larger prehistoric landscape containing several older monuments nearby, including West Kennet Long Barrow and Silbury Hill.

Leaving Avebury Henge we passed one of the famous White Horses of Wiltshire. The Cherhill white horse is the second oldest of the Wiltshire horses. Very well placed high on a steep slope, the horse is easily visible from below and from a distance.
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The Cherhill white horse is the work of a Dr. Christopher Alsop of Calne, sometimes referred to as “the mad doctor”. He is said to have directed the marking out of the horse from a distance, calling instructions through a megaphone. Dr. Alsop’s design for the horse may have been influenced by the work of his artist friend George Stubbs, famous for his paintings of horses and other animals.

This white horse once had an unusual feature, a glass eye. The center of the eye was formed from upturned bottles pressed into the ground to reflect the sunlight. Thus the eye apparently had a bright gleaming appearance, and was visible from a considerable distance. Unfortunately vandals kept taking the bottles and, after replacing them on several occasions, they have now been replaced by a concrete eye.

We arrived at the Abbey Gardens in time for lunch. Situated beside the 12th century Abbey Church in the center of medieval Malmesbury and straddling the River Avon, Abbey Gardens was one of my favourite gardens. The main part of the garden was not as large as some of the other gardens we had visited though it did have an extensive dell. It was beautifully maintained, crammed with interesting things and very quirky.

Statue at the entrance of Abbey Gardens.  Not appreciated by the onlooker
Statue at the entrance of Abbey Gardens. Not appreciated by the onlooker
Knot gardens and borders
Knot gardens and borders
Abbey House
Abbey House

Ian and Barbara Pollard purchased the 16th Century Abbey House in 1994. Empty for 3 years after its previous owners had vacated, it needed a good deal of work and love to bring it back to a comfortable family home. Following the restoration of the house they decided to create a garden that might attract visitors from around the world.
Herbs and vegetables to the lime walk
Herbs and vegetables to the lime walk
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Over the following years they dedicated every waking moment to the garden, rarely going outside the garden gates. Featuring formal knot gardens, spring bulbs, tulips (third of a million), hostas, laburnum tunnel, colonnade walk, roses (largest collection in the UK), japanese maples, fruit trees, double herbaceous borders, irises, alstroemerias, herb garden, monastic fish ponds and with woodland and riverside walks where wildlife from water voles, the occasional otter, goldcrests, longtailed tits, treecreepers, kingfishers, woodpeckers to sparrowhawks, buzzards and swans appear – there is plenty to see!!
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Over the years the Pollards have become well known as “The Naked Gardeners” both because they often garden naked and have Clothes Optional Days, when the gardens are open to those who wish to spend their time (within the garden boundaries) without their clothes – though this is not compulsory. The day we visited was not one of these days!
Interesting statues!
Interesting statues!
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Unfortunately the Pollards have separated amidst claims of naked infidelity and there are fears Abbey House Gardens could be lost when the 16th century mansion is sold – disappointing thousands of naked tourists who visit every year as well as the many millions of visitors who have admired the garden.
Interesting handrail leading to the dell
Interesting handrail leading to the dell
Woodland walks
Woodland walks
Crossing the River Avon on the woodland walk
Crossing the River Avon on the woodland walk

Our next stop was the village of Bibury, was once described by William Morris as ‘the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds’.

The village center clusters around a square near St. Mary’s, a Saxon church. Some of the Saxon remains inside the church are replicas as the originals are housed in the British Museum.

Buildings of Bibury
Buildings of Bibury
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One of the village’s main tourist spots and overlooking a water meadow and the river is Arlington Row, a group of ancient cottages with steeply pitched roofs that were built in 1380 as a monastic wool store and converted into weavers’ cottages in the 17th century. Henry Ford thought Arlington Row was an icon of England. On a trip to the Cotswolds he tried to buy the entire row of houses to ship back to Michigan.
Arlington Row
Arlington Row

The water meadow provides an important habitat for water-loving plants and birds including water voles, marsh orchid, flag iris, and marsh marigold.  There are plenty of places to stop and watch the wildlife.
The water meadow provides an important habitat for water-loving plants and birds including water voles, marsh orchid, flag iris, and marsh marigold. There are plenty of places to stop and watch the wildlife.

A couple of horses who escaped and took off down the road delayed our travel to the next garden. Their owners chased them for a number of miles down the busy road until someone with a bit of horse sense managed to block them
Escapees
Escapees

Coughton Court has been the home of the Throckmorton family since 1409. The Throckmorton family is the oldest catholic family in England having remained Roman Catholics since the reformation.
47 Coughton Court
Various members of the family were involved in, or connected with, pre-Reformation plots and conspiracies including the Throckmorton Plot of 1583 and the Gunpowder Plot of 1605.

Although Royalist sympathisers during the Civil War, the family was one of very few recusant families to survive the turbulent 16th and 17th centuries with their estates intact. They went on to become leaders in Catholic emancipation in the 18th and 19th Centuries.

The Throckmorton Family Gardens at Coughton Court are still owned and managed by the family. Clare McLaren-Throckmorton together with her daughter, acclaimed garden designer Christina Williams, has devoted the past 15 years – with the support of a dedicated team of gardeners – to developing what is now one of the finest gardens in Britain.
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Relaxing at the garden
Relaxing at the garden

Behind the Tudor gatehouse house you will find the courtyard with its fine Elizabethan half-timbering, where a knot garden leads to lawns and fine vistas of the Warwickshire countryside.

The house stands in 25 acres of grounds. The centerpiece is the famous walled garden, with a concentration of roses and herbaceous plants. There is something for everyone in horticultural terms: a bog garden, formal lawns, vegetable garden, orchard, riverside walks, and a formal garden in the courtyard.
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St Peters Anglican Church
St Peters Anglican Church

Close by, the Catholic Church of St Peter, St Paul and St Elizabeth was commissioned by Sir Robert Throckmorton, 8th Baronet, soon after the emancipation acts were passed which permitted the building of non-Anglican places of worship.
The Catholic Church
The Catholic Church
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Tomorrow it is on to Hidcote and Kiftsgate – what a treat!!

Day Three

To add a bit of variation to the itinery, Special Group Tours had added some surprise visits they thought we might like.

The morning of the third day saw us heading for East Grinstead and The Bluebell Railway, which is a heritage line running for 11 miles along the border between East and West Sussex. It is the first preserved standard gauge steam-operated passenger railway in the world to operate a public service.
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Ready to head out
Ready to head out
02 railway carriage
Tickets Please!
Tickets Please!

It operates between Sheffield Park and East Grinstead, with intermediate stations at Horsted Keynes & Kingscote, and is managed and run largely by volunteers. The attention to detail in preserving the stations, waiting rooms and luggage at each of the stations is a real trip back in time.
Luggage
Luggage
Signals at Horsted Keyes
Signals at Horsted Keyes
Spend a penny
Spend a penny
Railway cafe
Railway cafe
Freight
Freight

Of particular interest to Ed (and lots of photos for Mike) is their Railway Museum. Having preserved a number of steam locomotives, even before the cessation of steam service on British mainline railways in 1968, it has the largest collection (over 30) of steam locomotives in the UK after the National Railway Museum. The Society also has a collection of almost 150 carriages and wagons, most of them pre-1939.
Railway museum
Railway museum
Bluebell woods
Bluebell woods
Interesting signs on the journey
Interesting signs on the journey

Our very relaxing train trip, through some beautiful countryside, saw us arrive at Sheffield Park Station and the renowned Sheffield Park and Gardens. The gardens have evolved through centuries of landscape design, with influences of ‘Capability’ Brown and Humphry Repton. Four lakes form the heart of the garden, with paths circulating through the glades and wooded areas surrounding them.
Sheffield Park
Sheffield Park
One of the four lakes
One of the four lakes
Geese and goslings
Geese and goslings

Each owner has left their footprint on the gardens, which can still be seen today in the layout of the lakes, the construction of Pulham Falls, the planting of Palm Walk and the many different tree and shrub species from around the world.
Some of the ancient trees
Some of the ancient trees
The decorative weir
The decorative weir
Even in paradise - mole holes
Even in paradise – mole holes

Our final stop for the day was Vann Gardens owned by the Caroe family for over 100 years. The house is steeped in history with additions to the original timber-framed 16th century house in every century, the most recent in 1907 by WD Caröe.
The house
The house

Nestled in the Surrey countryside near Godalming, this five-acre garden is formed by a series of “rooms“ which surround and complement the family home.
Water garden
Water garden

The unique Water Garden by Gertrude Jekyll in 1911 links a succession of small ponds fed by the cascade from the quarter-acre pond, crossed by stone paths and bridges banked with lush vegetation and 1,500 water-loving plants supplied by Miss Jekyll. The stream flows down to a wild White Garden, a blanket of snowdrops in February succeeded by narcissi, white fritillaries and martagon lilies, before disappearing into the coppiced woodland beyond.
Wild white garden
Wild white garden

To the north, the stream enters the garden and runs through the Yew Walk (1909) in a rhyll banked by dry-stone Bargate walls and enclosed by large yew hedges with beds each side. This formal room has been replanted with foliage plants and bulbs to give year-round interest. In the double mixed borders in the vegetable garden plants of special interest to the horticulturist abound and pears and peaches fruit on the crinkle-crankle wall. Both the house and garden are Grade 2 registered by English Heritage
The rhyll
The rhyll
Formal gardens
Formal gardens
Pergola of Bargate stone by W.D. Caröe, the Arts and Crafts architect and grandfather of the present owners
Pergola of Bargate stone by W.D. Caröe, the Arts and Crafts architect and grandfather of the present owners

Whilst Vann is an interesting garden the most inspiring part of it is the current owner, Miss Caroe, who not only is a practicing doctor but also, despite being well into her seventies, manages the garden with very little help.
The haha separating the garden from the paddocks
The haha separating the garden from the paddocks

Checking out some of England’s Finest Gardens


Days 1 and 2

Gathering in the hotel foyer with our luggage, we met up with Kate from Special Group Tours and sorted ourselves out into buses and guides. Kate had five tours leaving that morning – all heading for different destinations and occasionally crossing over at some of the larger gardens. With the exception of the Boston Gardening Club, we were all in groups of 12 or less, each with a driver/guide.

Our group numbered twelve – six Americans, five Australians and one Canadian and soon fell into three groups – four Americans from St. Louis, the commonwealth contingent and an American couple who were so difficult everyone gave up trying. Our guide was Tom, an affable Brit who now lives in America but does these mid year tours in Britain to catch up with his family.wisely 3

Wisely
Wisely
Heading off to explore
Heading off to explore

First garden to visit was the fabulous RHS Wisely. Our first purchase was two large umbrellas as the weather had chosen today to end it’s dry spell, starting with showers and degenerating into steady rain. Despite this we loved our visit to Wisely. So many different areas, beautifully set out and well labeled so we could take note of the plants we liked. Stunning long vistas divided the wild garden from the shrubbery with garden rooms in the middle including the rose garden and the lavender garden. The huge glass conservatory in the middle of the lake housed tropical and semi tropical plants and an area was set aside for a series of display gardens demonstrating different uses of plants and natural materials.

Fabulous vistas
Fabulous vistas
More formal gardens
More formal gardens
Wisley 2
Entering the wild garden
Entering the wild garden
The wild garden
The wild garden
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The conservatory
The conservatory
The shrubbery
The shrubbery
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Having gained a number of ideas we headed for the coffee shop for what was to become our standard lunch – soup and farmhouse bread – before heading for our next destination, Penshurst Place.

Some things we liked
Some things we liked
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As it was now raining pretty steadily we decided to tour the 14th century manor house before heading into the garden. The House, once the property of King Henry VIII, was left to his son King Edward VI and granted to Sir William Sidney in 1552. The Sidney family has now been in continuous occupation for more than 460 years.
Penshurst Place
Penshurst Place
Fabulous copper beech
Fabulous copper beech

Penshurst boasts one of the finest medieval Barons Halls in Britain. This great stone hall, decorated with the usual weaponry and banners has changed little from medieval times. Though they have closed in the aperture on the roof to keep the weather out you can easily visualize the central roaring fire that supplied warmth and cooking facilities.
Baron's Hall
Baron’s Hall
Armour Gallery
Armour Gallery
One of the bedrooms
One of the bedrooms

A quick tour through the rest of the castle with it’s withdrawing rooms, tapestry room, galleries and the Elizabethan room (where Queen Elizabeth I did a lot of business) and then, with the rain easing slightly, it was out into the garden.

Penshurst Garden Plan
Penshurst Garden Plan

Formal garden designed to be viewed from State Rooms
Formal garden designed to be viewed from State Rooms
Porcupine sculpture.  The porcupine is one of the Sidney family heraldic images
Porcupine sculpture. The porcupine is one of the Sidney family heraldic images
Surrounded by walls and hedges
Surrounded by walls…..
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...and hedges
…and hedges
penshurst 4
The bear
The bear
The porcupine
The porcupine

Including the parklands, the grounds cover 48 acres of grounds with 11 acres of formal Grade One listed Garden. Opening directly in front of the House, the 16th-century Italian Garden, with an oval lily pool and classical statue at its center, is designed to be enjoyed from the State Rooms. To the left an archway under the Garden Tower leads you past the blue and yellow borders, planted in the colours of the Sidney family coat of arms, to the paved garden. Over one mile of yew hedging divides the remainder of the Garden into a series of ‘rooms’, each with its own season and colour
Garden rooms
Garden rooms
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The terrace
The terrace
Herb & vegetable garden
Herb & vegetable garden
Pleched orchard
Pleched orchard
Looking back over knot garden to Penshurst Place
Looking back over knot garden to Penshurst Place

Our stay that night was in The Royal Wells Hotel at Tunbridge Wells. Our room turned out to be a suite with a magnificent freestanding copper bath – so glad we had two nights in this welcoming Hotel.
Mmm - nice room
Mmm – nice room

The next morning it was off to the legendary garden of Sissinghurst, which is owned and maintained by the National Trust. It is among the most famous gardens in England and is Grade I listed. This was evidenced by the crowds of people!!
Sissinghurst garden rooms
Sissinghurst garden rooms
sissinghurstsissing3
Sissinghurst’s garden was created in the 1930s by Vita Sackville-West, poet and gardening writer, and her husband Harold Nicolson, author and diplomat. The garden itself is designed as a series of “rooms”, each with a different character of colour and/or theme, divided by high clipped hedges and pink brick walls.

Some of our favourite areas were the sunken garden, the nuttery and the lime walk. The white garden, though not in full flower, was interesting even if just to see this talked about and widely emulated room. Other things to see include the 15th century Elizabethan gatehouse tower (fabulous views of the garden), the complex of Oast Houses (Hop Kilns) which were previously used in the brewing process and now house a museum, an orchard and an extensive vegetable garden, which supplies the two cafes.

The sunken garden
The sunken garden
The nuttery
The nuttery
The lime walk
The lime walk
The white garden
The white garden
Oast houses
Oast houses
Herb and vegetable garden
Herb and vegetable garden
Things we liked
Things we liked
sissinghurst paving
Having had a large breakfast – and with the promise of scones and homemade jam for afternoon tea – we bypassed lunch, boarded our bus and set off for Hole Park (with a quick diversion to have a bit of a wander through one of the Cotswold Villages).
This privately owned Queen Anne manor house and garden was bought in 1911 by the current owner’s great grandfather, Colonel Arthur Barham, who redesigned and replanted the gardens, creating a valley garden and a series of garden rooms with gates.
Avenue of horse  chestnuts
Avenue of horse chestnuts
Hole Park with it's heraldic bears
Hole Park with it’s heraldic bears
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Driving down a rolled gravel drive lined by an avenue of mature horse chestnut trees, we arrived at the forecourt on the front of the house where we were met by Edward Barham, the owner, and his two black Labradors. He gave us a conducted tour of his estate finishing up at the small café where his wife, Clare, served us tea – truly a family affair.
Edward and the Eagle Slayer
Edward and the Eagle Slayer
Black labs at the Memorial Gate
Black labs at the Memorial Gate

The extensive garden covers 15 acres with over 200 acres of parkland and is maintained by the current owner, Edward and two gardeners. It is only open during the summer months, the rest of the year being set aside for maintenance and family time.
Miles of yew hedges
Miles of yew hedges

Immaculately trimmed yew hedges, many with geometric topiary shapes, surround much of the formal gardens. These are clipped entirely by hand and shelter sweeping lawns as well as herbaceous borders, a rose garden, an egg pond, numerous sculptures and seats and a memorial gate dedicated to Colonel Barham eldest son who was killed at Ypres in 1915. Outside the rooms are long vistas, many of which open up to breathtaking views over the Weald (woodland) of Kent.
holepark34
Wedding pavilion.  In England you can only be married if you have a roof over your head
Wedding pavilion. In England you can only be married if you have a roof over your head
Heraldic bears everywhere
Heraldic bears everywhere
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Quiet, secluded places
Quiet, secluded places
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Tree peonies - look at the size of them
Tree peonies – look at the size of them

The vista in front of the house is particularly striking looking out over a lily pond within the garden, rolling parkland outside the garden and an obelisk framed by hedges in the distance. A brick ha-ha ensures that the view is uninterrupted
hole park 30
Behind the house you leave the formal area and wander down a gentle slope into quite a different world. The woodland walk takes you through the wildflower meadow into the heart of a dedicated bluebell wood. So spectacular is the display that visitors monitor a ‘bluebell barometer’ and turn up in their thousands when it hits level four.
Wildflower meadow to valley garden and bluebell woods
Wildflower meadow to valley garden and bluebell woods
Looking back towards the house and formal gardens
Looking back towards the house and formal gardens
The bluebell woods
The bluebell woods

Grass and bark paths wind their way through an area planted with many rare and unique trees as well as rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias. A small stream feeds a densely planted bog garden at the bottom of the valley.
The valley gardens
The valley gardens
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The bog garden
The bog garden

It was with some reluctance that we left the woodland dell and headed up for afternoon tea but hunger was a deciding factor. A wander through the walled garden and the millennium garden and then it was back on the bus and a return to our hotel for drinks and dinner.
The millennium garden
The millennium garden

Tomorrow we are off to an undisclosed destination before visiting the Vann Gardens in the afternoon